Cross Brace for 560 Motor in FMS FCX10

Cross Brace for 560 Motor in FMS FCX10

Long Motor Cross Brace for FMS FCX10

Long Motor Cross Brace for FMS FCX10

What This Is

This is a one-piece cross-brace that’s designed to replace the stock piece in the FMS FCX10 K5 Blazer. It sits between the motor and the servo and provides chassis rigidity and receiver holes for the shock hoop screws.

Print this tray and install it using the hardware that came with the car. You’ll have more room for your longer motor with no loss in rigidity or strength. Win-win!

Cross Brace for FMS FCX10 Installed

What’s Included

The zip file below contains:

  • RC-TNT Cross Brace for FMS FCX10.stl
  • Read Me.txt
Cross Brace for FMS FCX10 Top-Down

How to Print

I printed in PLA+, though PLA, PETG and other rigid filaments should be fine. I’d suggest these settings:

– 0.4mm nozzle (or bigger)
– 0.24mm layer size (I used 0.3mm with my 0.6mm nozzle)
– 4 to 6 wall width (or wall or shell layers)
– 60% infill, cubic (25% minimum)
– No supports, brim or other helpers. Just print it flat and you’re done.

Cross Brace for FMS FCX10 Underside

Installation

Simply remove the stock cross-brace that sits between the motor and the servo in your FMS FCX10. Install this one, with the deeper gap at the back. There’s a small arrow on the top surface that points to the front of the chassis.

Now you have 6mm more room for a 560 sized motor, or for whatever other crazy thing you’re trying to run in the car.

 

FMS FCX10 K5 Blazer

Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Craig Veness

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

Tray Fix for Furitek FX-118

Tray Fix for Furitek FX-118

Battery Tray for FuriTek FX118 Fury Wagon

FX118 on Rock

What This Is

This is a one-piece battery & electronics tray that is designed to move the weight forward on the Furitek FX-118 Fury Wagon. In stock form, the model has too much rear weight and struggles when crawling.

Print this tray and install it using the hardware that came with the car. You’ll have a more capable rig, even if you do nothing else!

FX118 RHS Chassis

What’s Included

The zip file below contains:

  • RC-TNT CoG Fix for FX-118.stl
  • Read Me.txt
FX118 Front LHS

How to Print

I strongly suggest PLA+ or other impact-resistant filaments. I’d suggest these settings:

– 0.4mm nozzle (or bigger)
– 0.24mm layer size (I used 0.3mm with my 0.6mm nozzle)
– 6 wall width (or wall or shell layers)
– 60% infill, cubic (40% minimum)
– supports needed (tree recommended at 35 degrees)

 

FX118 Tray Print Setup

Installation

Once printed, install the tray with the screws from the front mount (OEM piece removed) and two of the four screws from the battery tray mounts (in the rearward of the front screw holes). Also, remove the locknuts from the front shocks and screw those same screws into the side-hoops of this tray.

Use one of the two rubber bands to secure the battery up front, and fresh double-sided tape to stick down the ESC and Receiver on the rear of the tray. See my video and/or photos on the website for specifics, or just make it up yourself. There’s no one way to do it – fit the modules how you want to 🙂

FX118 Top-Down Tray
FX118 RHS Chassis with Tray

Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Craig Veness

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

Custom Body for Losi LMT Mega Trucks

Custom Body for Losi LMT Mega Trucks

Custom Body for Losi LMT Mega Trucks

Modified Losi LMT Mega Front-RHS

What This Is

These are my custom parts to help complete the project started by redbeard_ron on Thingiverse some time back. I’ve included a hood piece that helps secure the polycarbonate interior, and a pair of rear panels to help complete the rear of the cage.

My parts are sized to fit the Losi LMT Mega Truck rather than the Losi LMT, but they’re actually fairly close. Have a play with them and see what you think!

Other Useful Parts for LMT

Bull bar & axle brace: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4823186
Kingpin braces: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4838068
redbeard_ron’s panels: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4929088

Printing Hood Piece

What’s Included

The zip file below contains:

  • Hood Piece V2.stl
  • Rear Panel v3.stl
  • Read Me.txt
  • identifying parts.jpg
redbeard_ron's Original Panels

How to Print

I strongly suggest PLA+ or other impact-resistant filaments. I’d suggest these settings:

– 0.4mm nozzle (or bigger)
– 0.24mm layer size (I used 0.3mm with my 0.6mm nozzle)
– 6 wall width (or wall or shell layers)
– 60% infill, cubic (40% minimum)
– no supports needed
– mirror the rear panel so you have a Left and Right side

To get the triangular patterns and multi colors on my prints, I ‘painted’ the shapes using Bambu Studio and printed with my P1S with AMS. Printing in a single color is fine, of course.

 

Modified Losi LMT Mega Front-LHS

Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Craig Veness

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

Comp Course Labels

Comp Course Labels

Comp Course Labels

Comp Course Labels

What This Is

When we run a comp day, our club has sometimes as many as 20 courses running concurrently.

It can get confusing for people who are looking for the right course for their class.

So, now we have these nifty course labels. Each one uses a bit under 30g of filament with 2 colors and probably less again with just one color.

PScale Print Preview

What’s Included

I’ve made a set of Course 1 to Course 5 for these classes:

  • Super
  • Pro/Moa
  • Sporty
  • Performance Scale
  • Mini
  • Scale-1 (experimental class)
  • Pricey’s Tuff Truck (experimental class)

I’ve also made a blank label, so you can print it in just one bright color and then write your class and course number on it in black marker. It’s up to you how you do it!

They’re 150mm x 50mm in size, and about 8mm deep. I didn’t want to go too thin nor too small, as they need to be visible and also heavy enough to not be blown away in windy conditions. This size feels good in the hand and it’s easy to read in the IMPACT font I used.

Materials Needed

You’ll need 25g to 30g of PLA+ filament per label, and of course, access to 3D printer.

Comp Labels printing

How to Print

These are best printed at a draft resolution (0.24 on a 0.4mm nozzle or 0.3 or 0.36 on a 0.6mm nozzle). I used 2 walls (or shell thickness) and 10% Rectilinear infill.

Printing in two filament colors, care of Bambu AMS, at 0.3mm resolution, the total filament needed to print a set of 5 labels is 144g (or 48m of PLA+ filament).

 

Sporty Label Printing

Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Craig Veness

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

My MN-82 Landcruiser Overhaul

My MN-82 Landcruiser Overhaul

Upgrades for the MN-82 Landcruiser

MN-82 Left Side

What This Is

Banggood sent me the MN-82 Landcruiser 79-Series Ute (or ‘pickup’ for you good Americans following along). It was attractive in stock form, but the suspension was way too firm and the vehicle was missing a certain something.

So, I got to work and this is what I came up with! Better looking, better performing and for minimial expense – especially if you already have a spare set of 1/24 wheels and tires to use with this pretty car!

MN-82 Landcruiser with Canopy

Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

What’s Included

  • Canopy for the drop bed;
  • Sliding door for the canopy;
  • Spacers to fit the rear springs to the front friction shocks;
  • 5mm to 8mm hex adapters to allow regular 1/24 wheels to fit;
  • Widened front and rear wheel arches to maintain scale tire coverage;
  • Anti-wrap bars for the rear leaf suspension, allowing you to remove all but the main leaf without sacrificing axle alignment;
  • Instructions on how to put it all together!

 

Materials Needed

  • MN-82 Landcruiser (buy here)
  • Injora (or other standard) 1/24 Wheels and Tires (links to the ones I’m using)
  • Jeweler’s (L) Philips Head Screwdriver
  • M2 Bolts and Screws
    • 16x 6mm x 1mm self-tapping screws for the canopy and fenders
    • 1x 20mm M2 bolt for the spare tire
    • 4x 20mm M2 bolts for the inner screws on the leaf spring brackets
    • 2x 20mm M2 bolts for the upper front shackle & anti-wrap bar fronts
  • Xacto blade or similar sharp cutting tool with strong handle
  • 1.6-1.8mm drill bit + drill
  • Conformal Coating for electronics use
  • Cotton wool bud for appling conformal coating
  • ~125g of PLA+ filament and access to 3D printer

Printable Parts List

  • Anti-Wrap Bar LHS.stl – print 1, PLA+ or PETG
  • Anti-Wrap Bar RHS.stl – print 1, PLA+ or PETG
  • Bed Canopy.stl – print 1, PLA+
  • Canopy Door.stl – print 1, PLA+
  • Front Fender LHS.stl – print 1, PLA+ or PETG
  • Front Fender RHS.stl – print 1, PLA+ or PETG
  • Front Shock Spacer 12.5mm (2) sliced.png – shows how I’d print it (ie. use brim)
  • Front Shock Spacer 12.5mm (2).stl – print 2, PLA+ or PETG
  • Hex Adapter LP (4).stl – print 4, PLA+ strongly recommended

How to Print

Print the bed canopy on its roof. Tree supports are needed, but that’s it.
Canopy door can just be printed flat.

Print the front and rear fenders on their upper, main arches.
Resist the urge to print the rear ones on the side that mates to the body.
Use tree supports. They’ll be fairly minimal but they’ll help.

Print the spacers and the hex adapters with a brim to assist with bed adhesion.

Model Preparation

  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Remove the four wheels.
  • Remove the 6 screws underneath that attach the body to the chassis.
    (Don’t stress if you get these wrong. Worst case, you unscrew the interior.)
  • When you remove the body, do it slowly! Prepare to unplug the battery & lights.
  • First: take a photo of the PCB before you unplug anything. Then unplug them.
  • Set the body aside. It should have headlights and power cable dangling.
  • Disconnect the motor and switch plugs. Disconnect the servo.
  • Remove the screw holding the PCB to the chassis plate. Remove the PCB.
  • Replace the PCB screw so you don’t lose it – it’s smaller than the others.

PCB Waterproofing

(Do this outside or somewhere with good ventilation, or wear a breathing apparatus.)

  • Place the PCB down on cardboard or kitchen paper towel.
  • Open the Conformal Coating bottle.
  • Dip cotton bud into the liquid, which will be like honey in consistency.
  • Dab it all over the single large chip on the plug side of the board.
  • Close bottle, dispose of bud, allow to dry for a couple hours.
  • Turn board over, open bottle, dip new bud into Conformal Coating.
  • Apply liberally all over the back side of the board except the holes.
  • Be careful not to miss any area – air holes can bite you later on when it gets wet!
  • Leave to set overnight. Once it’s firm to the touch and finished off-gassing, you’re good to go.
  • Re-install waterproofed board into chassis. Reconnect servo, motor and switch plugs.
Conformal Coating on PCB Back

Rear Shocks

  • Unscrew the rear shock tops and pop off the top half of the assembly.
    Remove the rear coil springs.
  • Press the shocks back together and screw back on.

Front Shocks

  • Unscrew the front shock tops and pop off the top half of the assembly.
  • Remove the front coil springs.
  • Drop the rear coils onto the lower halves.
  • Slide the spacers onto the upper halves.
  • Press back together and screw back on.

Leaf Springs

Examine the below picture for an idea of how it should look when done.

  • Pop off the rear shocks from the ball studs on the leaf spring brackets.
  • Unscrew your rear leaf springs.
  • Remove the plastic parts and just leave the metal mains.
  • Replace the original screws through the metal leaf spring.
  • Unscrew the inner screws on the leaf brackets (closer to chassis rails).
  • Place the anti-wrap arm under the inner of the two holes between the bracket and axle underside.
  • Screw in the M2 20mm screws to secure the top axle piece to the base, through the anti-wrap bar.
  • Remove the upper (closer to chassis) screws through the front leaf spring ‘sliding shackle’
  • Install M2 20mm screws through the shackle, with the spacer if it fits over your screw, then through the anti-wrap bars.
  • Press the rear shocks back onto the ball studs.
  • Test everything moves smoothly.

Canopy and Door

The canopy door should be installed before you screw the canopy to the bed.

Wiggle and push it into the rails at an angle from the inside. Some force is needed.
Work at it, you’ll get there. Once it’s in, it’s staying in. Slide back and forth a bit to loosen it up, as desired.

Align the canopy over the bed and do up your screws.

Attach the spare wheel.

Completed Model Rear-RHS

Rear Mud Guards

Hold the rear mud guards up to the side of the body and use a felt tip marker to mark where to drill.

Drill your holes (I used end and middle holes), then screw the mud guards on. Don’t over-tighten.

Front Mud Guards

Pop out the clips on the front fenders and then pop in the new ones.

The new ones should be popped in with the middle clip first, then the front, then the rear.

Attaching the Wheels

  • The adapters are necessarily a tight fit.
  • Press the adapters into the wheel hex nuts.
  • Use the rounded end of a screwdriver to get a nice, even downward force on them.
  • Take care to press them in as evenly as possible.
  • (If you mess up, don’t worry – these are a fast and easy part to print, and once they’re on, they’ll be reliable because of how tight the fit is).
  • Once in, carefully cut your plastic axle ends by 5mm and then fit the adapters and their attached wheels onto the shorter axles.
  • Attach the screw, and you’re done!

Finishing Up

Screw the body back onto the chassis, reconnecting the wires into the correct plugs.

(And by the way, there is a light kit for the MN-78 that you may be able to adapt to this thing, if you’re keen. Find that here.)

For any of the above, see the pictures here and my original video summary for help.

I hope this all goes smoothly! I’ve just done it following these instructions and it seems good.

Thanks and enjoy this one!
-Craig

Craig Veness

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂