RC Crawlers Archives

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer 2.0

by Craig | Dec 4, 2024 | FMS, RC Crawlers, RC Reviews

Prefer to Listen?

The FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer is back, but with the same name as a few years ago. What’s going on? If you’d prefer to hear about it than read this interview, here is an AI-generated ‘deep dive’ podcast-style discussion between two AI hosts, courtesy of Google’s NotebookLM. It covers the below interview, which consists entirely of my own, very much NOT AI words and thoughts.

If you prefer to listen than read, it does justice to the interview below. Enjoy!

What’s New?

RC-TNT: Let’s talk about the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer. You’ve got the new version here to look at, sent from Banggood for review (buy here). How does that work?

Craig: That’s right, BG have sent the car to me for review purposes. I didn’t pay for it. But as always, my stipulations are simple but not-negotiable: I don’t accept payment for the review, I don’t provide my reviews to the manufacturer or retailer before releasing them to the public, and I show everything I find during my review, the good and the bad. Honesty first. If they’re not able to agree with my simple terms, I don’t accept the car for review. Pretty simple!

Okay, onto the cars. I bought the original with my own money and have received the newer version for review, that’s correct. This week, I’ve had both the old and the new models out at the same time and compared them closely. There are some differences between them that are worth talking about!

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Box Comparo

Body Changes

RC-TNT: Starting with the body, could you describe the visual differences between the previous version and the new truck?

Craig: The new version has undergone some noticeable updates. First, the tires (and the wheels) are now considerably larger, which not only changes the look but also improves performance significantly. The larger tires give it a more rugged, aggressive stance, and they help with ground clearance when crawling over obstacles.

The front wheel wells are gone now, which might seem like a small change, but it actually makes a big difference when the wheels articulate. You won’t have as much rubbing or interference, though the downside is the undercarriage is missing a little of the solid, scale feel the original version had. I don’t think it’s a huge loss though.

The metallic cherry red paint on this version is another standout—it has a sparkly, cherry-colored finish compared to the previous version, which was a bit more muted. Combined with the darker, more tinted windows, it really gives the model a more premium look. These changes to the body make the new version feel both more functional and visually appealing.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Side

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Full Nose to Nose

Mmm, Donuts

RC-TNT: That’s interesting! You’ve mentioned tires and wheel wells. So, let’s move on to the running gear. How do the changes in the wheel and tire size impact the new model’s performance compared to the previous version?

Craig: The larger tires are a game-changer for performance. They provide better grip on a variety of surfaces, from loose dirt to rocks. You’ll notice improved ground clearance, which allows the vehicle to handle bigger obstacles with ease. On the previous version, the smaller tires sometimes struggled with traction, especially on uneven and steep terrain or peaky obstacles, but the new ones make the vehicle much more capable.

The larger tires also contribute to better stability overall, because of the increased surface area making contact with the ground. It’s a small change that has a big impact on how the vehicle performs in real-world crawling scenarios. The bigger the tire, the smaller the relative size of the obstacles, basically.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Undersides

Gearing Up

RC-TNT: It sounds like those larger tires make a real difference! Speaking of gearing, could you elaborate on the new two-speed transmission in the updated model? How does it enhance the vehicle’s versatility compared to the previous version?

Craig: The two-speed transmission is one of my favorite upgrades in this model. It really enhances versatility. In low gear, you get that slow, controlled crawling performance with high torque, which is perfect for tackling technical trails or rocky climbs. High gear, on the other hand, allows for faster movement on flatter terrain, like when you’re driving between obstacles or on a trail run.

The ability to switch between these two modes on the fly is a massive improvement. It means you don’t have to compromise—you can have precision and torque when you need it and then switch to speed and battery efficiency when the terrain allows. The previous version’s single-speed setup just couldn’t offer that level of adaptability without a brushless upgrade, so this is a big step forward. The brushed system is now far more versatile.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Radio Comparo

Steering Committee

RC-TNT: That sounds like a great upgrade for a better trail and crawling experience! Now, let’s talk about the steering. How does the shift from a chassis-mounted servo to an on-axle servo affect the steering performance of the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: Switching to an on-axle servo is a fantastic improvement for performance, though there are drawbacks. With a chassis-mounted servo (CMS), you often deal with linkage flex and a certain amount of slack in the steering. This can result in less precise handling, especially when the suspension is under load.

The servo-on-axle (SOA) setup eliminates most of these issues because it’s directly connected to the steering assembly. This means the steering response is more accurate to full throw in both directions. You’ll notice this especially when one side of the axle is much lower or higher than the other, when crawling. Steering remains consistent, whereas the old CMS system can vary. Despite the drawback of looking less scale, you’re getting consistent performance regardless of how much the vehicle is articulating. Overall, it makes the driving experience feel a lot more dialed-in.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V2 & V1 Steering

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 Steering

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Undercarriage

Shocking Updates

RC-TNT: It’s fascinating how those changes impact performance! Tell us more about the suspension setup. How does the updated suspension on the new model differ from the previous version, and what benefits does it bring to the FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: The suspension on the new version is noticeably improved. First, the new shocks are oil-filled with aluminum bodies, including adjustable pre-load with thumb screw rings! The old ones were plastic and friction only, so this is already a big step up.

So yes, the shocks feel more refined, with better damping that allows for smoother articulation. This is crucial for crawling because it helps the vehicle maintain stability while navigating big changes to tire position on bigger obstacles.

The previous version was decent for what it was, but this one feels more balanced and capable. It’s also easier to tune the suspension to your liking, whether you want it softer for more articulation or firmer for better stability on inclines. This flexibility makes it more adaptable to different terrains and driving styles. Plus, the improved suspension works in harmony with the larger tires and the on-axle servo, creating a more cohesive and capable crawling platform.

Lying Down on the Job

RC-TNT: You mentioned there’s a new angle for the shocks earlier, and a change in the springs as well. What’s going on there?

Craig: That’s right, yes. On the first version of the model, the rear shocks were laid down at quite a significant angle, in order to fit them to the chassis rails, underneath the bed. The new model stands those shocks up some more, and so you see the top of the shock hoops in the bed. They’ve kind of got cutouts, which is not ideal aesthetically, but it greatly improves your options for suspension tuning.

The way that they pulled it off on the old one with the laid down shocks was that they just used really stiff springs, because the more you lay down the rear shocks, the less authority they’ll have over the suspension’s movement. So, they had to go with really quite thick diameter springs in the rear. It worked but it made the truck quite bouncy.

With the more stood up rears, the springs are nice and thin and the preload is adjustable. It’s tunable and it can articulate more easily and consistently throughout the entire range of motion. It’s really a delightful update, and I’m so happy they did that.

Escaping Short Circuits

(See what I did there? Har har.)

RC-TNT: That sounds like a significant improvement for both performance and tunability! Now, let’s talk about the electronics. How does the new waterproof control module in a plastic box compare to the previous model’s setup, and what benefits does it offer for the FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: Functionally, they’re the same, but aesthetically, when you lift the hood, it is actually a lot neater. The old model had the battery sitting back behind this board, so you just saw the naked electronic board, which is visually quite similar to a lot of the cheap cars that are out there.

It did still have conformal coating on the board, so it was water-resistant, like the new unit. However, being contained in a little plastic box with a separate little push-button switch, the new one looks much nicer, and your wires and components are prevented from accidental physical damage.

The other advantage of having the little plastic box, which is physically smaller than the old PCB, is that it’s backed further towards the firewall, towards the cab, that is. And now the battery tray is right up front, whereas the old one had the battery behind it. And that’s just as well, because the new battery is more than double the size of the old one. They’re both 2S batteries, that’s 7.4 volt LiPo batteries, but the old one was 380 milliamp-hour, the new one is 900 milliamp-hour. The charger is twice the output too, so you can now enjoy double the runtime, combined with your two-speed giving you so much more flexibility, while your charging time will be roughly the same as the old one.

It’s just an all-round better package from the electronics perspective. The other thing I’ll note on electronics is that the lighting is now a bit more modular. You’ve got plugs in the rear, as opposed to a hard-line wire that goes from the rear lights all the way to the front. Now they can be disconnected and split for upgrading, if you want to get a little bit more fancy with the lights. So overall, it’s a much more elegant solution with the lighting than it used to be on the old model.

Radio Star

RC-TNT: Those are some fantastic updates, making the new model both more efficient and user-friendly. Finally, let’s wrap up with the radio system. How does the upgraded radio with an extra channel enhance the driving experience of the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: The very practical approach they’ve taken to having a more power-efficient radio, for a start, is very good. It only takes two AA batteries. The old one took three AAA batteries, which was an inconvenient number, as far as getting batteries, or charging them. Also, AAA batteries have less capacity than AA batteries, and the higher your voltage in the system (4.5v vs 3v), the faster that voltage is going to drop.

So, combined with having fewer and bigger batteries, your runtime in the newer remote is now vastly greater than in the old one. The radio is also physically smaller, but to my large adult hands, it’s more comfortable to use. The wheel feels nicer, the trigger feels nicer, the balance of the radio is nicer.

Regarding the extra controls, the thumb press for the gear change is very nice. The radio has all the normal accoutrements for throttle and steering tuning and adjustment. Overall, it’s a real improvement.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Inclusions Comparo

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer FTW

RC-TNT: It’s impressive how many thoughtful improvements they’ve made! From the larger tires to the upgraded radio, it sounds like the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer offers a much more refined and capable experience. Thanks for walking us through these differences, Craig! Is there anything else you’d like to add about this model?

Craig: Not much more, except to say that the overall package is very impressive. The combination of aesthetic upgrades, like the paint and tinted windows, and functional improvements, like the two-speed transmission and suspension, really sets this model apart from its predecessor. It’s clear that a lot of thought went into making it not just look better, but perform better too. I think anyone who picks this up will be thrilled with what it offers.

Thanks to Banggood for supplying this model for review. Help support RC-TNT by using this link to buy one for yourself, if you like the model! Thanks 🙂

RC-TNT: That’s true, added performance and functions in a pretty package makes for a compelling new model. Thanks for sharing your insights! We look forward to seeing the full review on the channel. Talk to you next time on RC-TNT!

A note on affiliate links: we were provided with this car by the manufacturer for review purposes. The Amazon and AsiaTees links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

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RGT Intruder: An Important Release!

by Craig | May 22, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

Heard of RGT?

Before we get to the RGT Intruder EX86020 (available here), I think some context would be helpful. Previously a lesser-known manufacturer, Chinese company RGT have been making quite a splash with their 1/10 trail rig releases over 2022 and 2023.

For instance, you may have already seen our recent comparison article, “Which RGT is best for you?”. In this one, I compared three of their best and biggest recent releases: Rescuer, Challenger and Pro Runner. I’ve also looked at the Tracer, Pioneer, and the 136100 range either here or on the channel – and all have their merits.

What’s the Big Deal?

So, what’s the fuss about the RGT Intruder? Isn’t it just another car? Well, no: for a start, it’s their first big release for 2024. Secondly, it looks the same as the RGT Rescuer EX86190, which will inevitably lead to comparisons with the older, larger model. We’ll see below that this apparent similarity is only cosmetic in nature – but more on that in a moment.

I see it as an important next step after their successful, more ‘standard’ models. Their previous SWB (Short Wheel Base) models have been underwhelming, or, if finished beautifully as with the 136100v3, weaker than it should have been. (Both my 136100v2 and v3 have a broken front axle and both were the CVD joints not standing up to crawling). But now, folks are starting to pay attention.

The Big Reason

RGT has proven they can make great vehicles. They’ve shown how their own designs are working – obvious IP infringement aside with the bodies and often the tire treads. And they’ve shown that they can make a decently durable model that performs well AND has parts and upgrade availability. That’s actually quite a big deal.

As these models draw new potential customers to consider the brand, their newest model releases matter all the more. From where I’m watching, the RGT Intruder EX86020 is possibly their most important release. This is their first high-level scale model RC crawler that doesn’t have the extra bells and whistles that many folks disparage. It has a gorgeous body. The price suggests quality. The running gear is solid (U-joints in those front axles, for example). And it’s all 1/10 scale kit.

In short, this model needs to be good. Better than good. Newcomers to RGT are watching this one!

What’s It Like?

The first thing that jumped out to me was that gorgeous body. I made a post on my YT community page that said something like, “Gosh, this car just looks amazing from any angle” – and it really does!

There are a bunch of extras they throw in so you can add more lights, mount a larger battery tray, add some scale extras and have a play with suspension mount points and so on. There’s a lot of good here, though the main ‘feature’ of this model is its appearance. I mean, just look at it!

Body Issues

There’s only one issue with the body: it is not licensed. This has been the case for all of their crawlers, to my knowledge. Toyota may not be pleased, and I don’t condone the practice. Unlicenced bodies are a problem for the hobby, as are cloned parts. I really need to do a blog post on just this topic, as there are a few things to unpack here. But the car is pretty and the colour choices are all quite good.

This model comes with some extra plastics for both the cabin and the exterior of the body, like a rear-view mirror, extra spotlight cases, wipers, and so on. You need to fit these yourself. The folding side-mirrors come installed though, as do the door handles and the rear pillar air vents. If you do nothing with the extras after you unbox it, the car is still very complete. I also appreciate the captured body pins – you won’t lose these during a battery change on the trail!

RGT Intruder Interior

Well, it has one. My original RGT Rescuer did not have one (see? Even I’m comparing this car to the Rescuer! It’s inevitable!), though now the EX86190 does ship with an interior. I bought mine separately. The interior in the Intruder here is the same as the one I bought. This is a good thing, as it helps keep RGT’s costs down. It’s attractive, functional, and being polycarbonate, about as light as it could be. Good!

There are no lights in the cabin, but there are lights on all corners, controlled by a central module that’s attached to the underside of the body’s mold piece. It connects to the LED port on the all-in-one Receiver/ESC/Light Controller on the chassis. I’ll get to that further down.

Wheels and Tires

There’s the promise of performance, with vented tires (including foams), and they’re about as large as could reasonably fit under this scale of body. They’d be 43” tires in real life – and on this kind of vehicle, even something like 35” tires are BIG. So, RGT have pushed the performance there as far as they dare. It’s a compromise, scale vs capability, and I think it was the right move to max the diameter out.

They’re glued 4.31″ tires on plastic 1.9″ wheels. However, I do think the tire carcass is too stiff for the weight of this car. The foams feel about right, but the rubber in the tires is either too thick or too rigid, and to my feel, they don’t bend enough around rocks. Traction is lost that the car really needs. We’ll get to this shortly.

Chassis and Links

This is a talking point: the rails are 3mm CNC-milled aluminum with a stunning finish. They are really pretty! And the chassis is very stiff, too, thanks to the generous plastic-fiber cross bracing from nose to tail. The shock hoops are part of the rails and even the panhard mount is finished in the same lovely material. Full marks for that.

Links and geometry are also well designed. There’s full movement for both axles, no binding, and plenty of room for everything to move as it needs to. And the car isn’t heavy. These are all great things, too. Honestly, we’re off to a very solid start at this point.

Oh, those links are 6mm stainless steel with stainless steel ball ends, too. It’s so premium. Not everyone will appreciate how nice this is, but as an RC guy with ALL the cars and a lot of experience at this point, I want to emphasize just how high the quality is on this vehicle. RGT have not cut corners on chassis and links.

Suspension

The coil-over shocks are also very nice. Aluminum body, thumb-screw adjustable pre-load, appropriately plush springs and intelligently mounted. I like these.

However, my unit arrived with empty shocks. Not everyone will notice this, and not everyone will care, but you want some oil in your shocks. It limits how bouncy they are, which limits how much the wheel reacts to changes in terrain at high or low speed. I’d recommend 30 wt. oil, give or take. Worth doing.

The shocks move well and the car is in good shape with this setup. Just don’t forget the oil like my car’s assembler did!

Straight Axles

No portals here. But the best thing about these straight axles is how tough they are. I love seeing steel universal joints on front steering axles in a crawler. It’s really the only way to go for performance and strength. Yes, they’re not as smooth as CVDs and similar, but the extra steering angle the unis afford you make the trade-off well worth it.

The housings themselves aren’t particularly scale, but the size is small and they are attractive. It’s a high-pinion position like Axial’s AR45 axles and the gears are helical cut (or spiral? Can’t quite tell from the photos). Either way, they’ll be strong, and with the default tooth count of 30/8, overdriving/underdriving using the diff gears for better crawling and steering should be a straightforward undertaking. (I’m confident these will fit, though I haven’t tested them yet!)

Radio & AIO Rx/ESC/Lights

After a couple of vehicles with the new FlySky MGXX-BS radio systems, this is my first one with the middle-spec option, the MG6-BS. It’s a 6-channel radio (4x AAs) and an AIO (All-In-One) receiver, 60A ESC and light controller with discrete light hub for body-mounting. The radio is comfortable in the hand, all plastic, and with two stand-out features/design elements:

Channel 5 is a spring-loaded thumb dial that returns to center. What a perfect controller for a winch! (The chassis and bull-bar have a mount point and fairlead respectively for exactly that, too!); and,
A set of DIP switches on the radio that give you control over drive mode (Fwd/Brk/Rev and Fwd/Rev); LiPO/NiMH; Drag Brake (0%, 25%, 50%, 100% – though it’s weak even at 100%); and all the channel reverse options.

It’s a good system. Be aware the light kit is a cut-down version that gives you headlights or no headlights, and indicators and reverse being always enabled based on steering and throttle inputs respectively.

The biggest drawback is that Reverse is WEAK. Slow and underpowered, it seems to have been a cost-saving choice, as you need less MOSFETs in the ESC for reverse for this outcome. Saved FlySky a buck or two, though you miss it on the trail. Apart from this one drawback, I like the whole system.

Our Test Course

If you’re not familiar with how we test RC rock crawlers, we have a course that challenges any 4x4 RC crawler in many ways:

Approach and departure angle: these are challenged on Problems 2 and 3;
Side-hill ability: tested on Problems 1, 3 and 5;
Breakover (skid clearance): tested on Problems 4 and 6;
Suspension articulation and centre of gravity: challenged on problems 2 and 5; and lastly,
A punishing ascent on problem 6 tests all of balance, break-over, articulation, tire traction and approach and departure angles.

Put together, we have a gnarly, challenging set of problems that challenge all crawlers. If a rig can conquer 3 or more of them, chances are you have a reasonably high-performance rock crawler. There are some machines that can claim all success on all six in stock form – but not many!

Driving Woes

I tested it on my 6-Problem course. Bad news first: that slow and underpowered reverse is a big enough drawback to be quite noticeable. I also found the steering servo to be slow and it faded under heavy crawling within a few minutes (though it didn’t fail outright).

The motor and gearing is too fast for crawling and too slow for trail driving. There’s no second speed here, so unlike the Rescuer (there’s that comparison again!!), you’re stuck with your gearing, battery and motor choice. This feels just like comparing the TRX4m to the FCX24 with its 2-speed, actually!

The tires are too stiff. The suspension moves like it should, though being filled with oil would have helped. The car is top-heavy and it tips over easily.

Driving Wins

On the bright side, this car looks magnificent on the trail. It looks amazing on the rocks. It moves nicely, with plenty of scale body roll without being too much. It’s quiet, and very pleasant to watch it work over the ground.

Without upgrades, in stock form, this will be a frustrating car to drive if you’re going beyond basic obstacles. The waterproofing is a nice touch, as are the lights, but that capability limitation will make itself known regularly.

With upgrades, though? Yeah, I think this could easily become one of my favorite cars. I’ll get back to you on that, as I’m planning on doing all of the upgrades I list below. The car drives okay. Could be better. 4/10.

Value Proposition

So, did they pull it off? Is the car worth the asking price? For a bigger, established brand name, the price is good. Although, newer names have been creeping in with very durable and very capable options in recent times – just look at the Ecto if you’re not convinced (review here)!

I think this car represents real potential for the owner who loves the Landcruiser body and has plans to improve it. As a stand-alone crawler, it’s not as good as a similarly priced rig from Element, such as the Sendero HD. But as a scale crawler with potential to go ultra-scale at low speeds, it leaves the more expensive TRX4 and Axial CJ7 in its dust. But those crawlers will be better on the trail with their second speeds, and better on the rocks, with their better tires and overall performance. So, what to do here? Buy it if you love the body, but be prepared to upgrade as you’re able.

Upgrades?

Open your wallet for this one. I try to be reserved in my upgrade recommendations usually, but this rig really wants a list of things. Ready?

Wheels & Tires

First, the tires need to go. They aren’t great. And since they’re glued, go with a weighted beadlock wheel too. I’m quite partial to the Boom Racing Hustlers – check them out (and I even found some period-correct steel ‘Sunraisia’ style beadlocks that go *perfectly* with this car)!

Also, you’ll want to install wheel wells (I’ll design some soon to download and print).

Electronics

The slow, weak servo needs replacing. Try my favorite budget crawler servo and you can even run it directly off the 2S battery (signal and ground wires to receiver, positive wire to battery connector, via a switch if you want). Or, my fave 7.4v brushless all-rounder is this guy.

While we’re on electronics, the AIO Rx/ESC and motor combo is sufficiently lacklustre that you’ll eventually throw your hands up and slap in a Fusion system instead.

You’ll want a radio system too, in that case – buy a receiver for any other radio you have, or consider the ever-reliable FlySky GT5.

Banggood sells really cheap 6-ch receivers so you can use this handset for up to 20 models, which is handy.

Lights & Accessories

Lastly, lights: use a Y-splitter for the light control module on the throttle channel and hope for the best (I will try to make an Arduino-based adapter for this to piggy-back off throttle and steering channels soon).

Down the track, you may consider a servo winch – the car is certainly ready for one! And perhaps also some scale accessories and you’ll be sorted!

Bottom Line

It’s a worthy body on a basic car. With upgrades, it’ll be a SWB beast! Without em, it’ll be a bit frustrating to drive. Pick obstacles appropriate to its capability and you’ll enjoy yourself. Just keep the limitations in mind if you’ve got your heart set on this gorgeous model.

My thanks to Banggood for providing RC-TNT with this model to review. I’d have purchased it myself if they hadn’t, because, just look at it! But they made the investment and have my thanks. Grab your own RGT Intruder EX86020 from Banggood here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

RGT Intruder: An Important Release!

by Craig | May 22, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Intruder EX86020 may be RGT’s most important release this year. Is this something great under a pretty body or more of the same old?

Which RGT Trail Rig is Best for YOU?

by Craig | Dec 17, 2023 | RC Crawlers, RGT

Three epic trail rigs from RGT: Rescuer EX86190, Challenger EX86170 & Pro Runner EX86130. They’re all great, but which one should you buy?

RGT 136100V3 Rock Cruiser RC-4 V3

by Craig | May 7, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT 136100V3 is a fun RC crawler with potential for better performance. It looks great on the trail and debuts some trick new electronics!

TRX4 Alternative? RGT Rescuer Review

by Craig | Mar 5, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The new RGT Rescuer (EX86190) is RGT’s latest and greatest premium RC rock crawler. Does it have what it takes to challenge the Traxxas TRX4?

RGT Adventurer V2 Review

by Craig | Jan 18, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Adventurer V2 136240 is a brilliant little 1:24 RC rock crawler. We’ve properly tested it, including in water. Video review too!

RGT Pioneer EX86110 1/10 4WD RC Rock Crawler

by Craig | Jan 7, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Pioneer EX86110 is cheaper than competitors and has a respectable specs list that suggest it’s a serious 1:10 RC crawler. Let’s test!

Yikong 4106 Pro Has a Party Trick!

by Craig | Mar 8, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Yikong

Inspiration, Not Imitation

Yikong 4106 Pro is a 1/10 RC crawler with an ability we have not yet seen in the RC crawling world. You may not have heard of Yikong before, but they’ve been quietly making some interesting models over 2023 and now 2024. This latest one will knock your socks off, once you consider the ramifications of what they’ve made. But first, some details.

This is a model that combines the best features of the offerings of the likes of Axial’s SCX10 III with 2-speed transmission and DIG (disengages drive to the rear, then locks the rear, for tight turning and improved rock crawling ability) and the Traxxas TRX4 with its remotely activated locking diffs.

The Killer Feature

But what makes the Yikong 4106 Pro special is something new that we haven’t seen in RC cars ever before: independent disc brakes! They’re only in the rear and they activate via a button that mixes their function with the vehicle’s steering. They work by clamping the inside wheel on a turn, when activated. So, when you turn left, for example, the rear-left wheel is braked, helping to really tighten the vehicle’s turning circle. Genius!

On the Floaty Side

The suspension is a bit on the floaty side, with considerable body roll. The vehicle has portal axles, which helps cancel out torque twist while also increasing undercarriage clearance on rough terrain. The shocks are “oil-filled” but the unit I received had “oily” but empty shocks. I’d suggest adding 30wt oil to create some needed damping.

Shocks can be mounted in a variety of positions, which is very welcome. They’re neutral, by default, and I like them there for trail and light crawling. Shock preload is adjustable by thumbscrews, and I found that winding on about 8mm in the rear really helped it with crawling. Now it isn’t so fast to lift a front wheel on steep ascents.

4106 Pro Servos

In the below photo, there are three servos closest to the camera. The first two are the diff lock servos, and then the one closer to the battery is the 2-speed servo. These are waterproofed servos with low power, I’m guessing maybe 2-3kg. Plastic gears, plastic spline, that kind of thing.

My front diff lock servo was broken, out of the box. I may replace it with another similarly cheap unit, or I may even just leave it be. I don’t mind the front being locked all the time. It’s the rear one that wants to be able to unlock, both for general driving and so that the ‘tank steer’ feature can work correctly.

The steering servo is a metal geared unit and has plenty of punch. I’m guessing 15kg or so, which is fine for this car.

Electronics

The ESC and receiver are an all-in-one unit from Flysky, which is OEM-only at time of writing. The Flysky FS-MG11-BS radio system incorporates a connected light kit that is designed to work with the radio system. It manages a lot of complexity in an elegant way. I like it. (It’s the same one you’ll find with the new FMS FCX10 1/10 model, and no doubt we’ll see it in other vehicles soon, too).

The car can take either a NiMH battery (6 or 7 cell), or 2S or 3S lipos. The ESC has a Deans (or T) connector. The power switch is located underneath, behind the skid, and is waterproofed.

The radio transmitter takes 4x AA batteries and you’ll need to supply all the batteries for this vehicle.

The motor is a large, 550-sized can with 32 turns. It’s well suited to the vehicle and I like it on both 2S and 3S.

Axles & Undercarriage

Axles are a pleasing scale design, with smooth lines and bolts in the right places. They engage well, seem like they’ll be durable, and the portals are tastefully implemented. No hulking, unnecessary chunks of plastic here. The front axles are steel universals, adding to their strength and something I always want to see in a crawler.

Thoughtful design is what you’ll find underneath the vehicle. Stainless steel links and inverse-rotation drive shafts are also like this. There’s a servo saver in the form of a passive steering damper on the steering link, too. It’s a solid undercarriage, overall. Nothing is hanging down to be grabbed by sticks or rocks and it just looks good.

Now, you may have read that it has a molded plastic chassis instead of the usual steel stamped C-channel rails. This is true. But, it works. The car is lighter for it, flex isn’t a huge issue and it keeps the cost down. I don’t see a down side in this model with that choice.

Mercedes & Hyrax: Clone Wars

The wheels are 2.2″ and look like the real thing, with the tiny Mercedes G-Wagon spokes around a solid wheel hub. The tire treads are not so scale, being a Proline Hyrax clone, but run on a 4.56″ tire carcass, which Proline does not make. Not entirely a clone, then – though the treads themselves clearly are Hyrax. The foams are a little on the firm side but they work well.

A Mysterious Interior

This G63 body has a complete interior, including dash, steering wheel, dash details and shifters, seats front and rear, and nicely finished. It’s in moulded polycarbonate, keeping the weight low.

However, there’s been a weird decision to apply a frosted, semi-opaque paint layer to the inside of the body on the windows, making it possible to only see the blurred outline of the seats, at best. Why go to the trouble and expense of including an interior, only to hide it? Perhaps subsequent manufacturing runs have removed the paint from the windows. I hope so.

Front Bumper Dilemma

The car comes with a solid plastic front bumper that can be installed. By default, it is not installed, instead allowing the stock polycarbonate body to show off its pretty, moulded front lower grille. If you want to install that front bumper, some of the body needs to be cut away to fit it. I was going to do this on mine but realised it would look worse. Cutting it is a one-way decision, so I’ve decided to keep mine as it is.

I should also add a note here about the sliders. They look like the aluminum of the real car -that is to say, they’re molded and painted on the polycarbonate body here. That means they look great, but it also means they’re weak. Just like the real thing, they’re really just for looks. You could beef it up with steel or plastic underneath, but it would be a custom job. As far as I know, there aren’t after-market rock sliders available for this model (yet).

Lighting Up the Trail

The body also enjoys a complete light system. It functions as part of the integrated Flysky receiver/ESC/light unit and provides full-function lighting. Low beam, high beam, flashing, indicators, braking, reverse, and fog lights are all part of the vehicle’s abilities. Looks great and you can switch between off, low, high, and flashing configurations.

Drive Modes

Also part of the Flysky system is a set of DIP switches on the radio transmitter. Switch 1 toggles driving mode from Fwd/Brk/Rev (trail driving) to Fwd/Rev (crawling). In the Trail mode, the taillights increase red luminosity when braking. In Crawl mode, there is no braking; you simply see the white Reverse lights when reversing, and the low-glow red taillights when otherwise stationary or driving.

Speaking of the transmitter, the wheel feels very premium. There’s a weight to it, though plastic, that has the feel of a much more expensive radio. The spring is light, the balance neutral, and it just feels great to use. The throttle trigger also has a pleasingly light action.

Radio Freedom

There are many options on this radio and happily, many are not used. There’s a thumb dial that has maybe 5mm of movement from neutral in each direction – that isn’t populated on the receiver, so it’d make a great winch controller or rear steer option.

On top, there’s a button and a dial that also aren’t used on the receiver (unless mixing interferes with this; I haven’t tested them yet), but you end up with quite a few options. You could put a sound system in the car and have the spare top button as a horn, for example.

Drag Brake on the Fly

Lastly, the radio also gives you a dial (Ch.11/Drag Brake) that allows the drag brake rate and intensity to be adjusted on the fly. The maximum setting feels like the equivalent of about 70% drag brake on a WP-1080 ESC (incidentally, see our programming guide here), in this vehicle. The minimum setting is basically zero drag brake. My video review shows the difference between these on the steep rock descent near the end. It’s a nifty feature.

Yikong 4106 Pro Driving Dynamics

The car drives quite nicely. This is a scale vehicle more than a performance machine. With it’s many driving accessories, it’s very fun to play around with. The two-speed transmission has a pleasingly wide ratio between first and second. The lockers engage nicely – well, I should say, the rear one does.

The front one does too, when I do it manually, but my front locker servo arrived faulty, so I can’t tell you from experience. I’ll swap mine out for a replacement servo (just a mini size, they’re pretty universal, so no worries there) and it’ll be fine. The so-called ‘tank turn’ feature of those rear disc brakes is just fabulous, and the lighting kit in the pretty body makes night driving possible and day driving more scale.

Back to the Big Thing

Now, onto those ramifications I mentioned in the intro: independent disc brakes. Yes, this model uses a single servo to modulate between left and right, for the sole purpose of tightening your steering radius when active. It works well. But as a proof of concept, now we know disc brakes work and that they can be rugged enough to be effective in an active, wet-n-dirty off-roader. On its own, that’s already impressive, right?

Now Think BIG

Okay, now think about faster cars. The Arrma Infraction has a disc brake on the rear outdrive from the transmission, for example. (Incidentally, buy an Infraction using this link for a discounted purchase; it’s my all-time favourite street car and so very worth it). Already a super fun, super powerful street machine, you now effectively have a hand brake feature on an 80mph-capable street basher. Nitros have also been using a disc brake on the drive shaft for years.

But to have disc brakes independently on each wheel? This means the traction control of full-size cars can be brought into road and track RC cars! Do you see the potential here? We already have the technology in the tiny ESC modules of current RC vehicles. Add a few extra servos and now you have something that can brake each wheel as traction is lost in a corner or under acceleration, and so on. What an exciting idea! I don’t know of any other manufacturer currently doing this, but I’m hopeful and excited to see more. Wow!

Final Thoughts

Frosted interior windows aside, the Yikong 4106 Pro is very well thought out. A manual would be appreciated, especially for hobby newcomers, as there’s a LOT going on with the radio. Thankfully, it’s well labelled.

I don’t support the blatant IP theft that Yikong have seemingly undertaken from Mercedes with the pretty G Wagon body, nor from the Hyrax tires. But, on the whole, they’ve created something special.

I’m loving the progress we’re seeing from these smaller brands and I’m so pleased the Yikong 4106Pro is not just another clone of an existing vehicle. It’s fun to drive, capable for what it is (think ‘Class 1 comp crawler’ and you’ll be pleasantly surprised) and it looks great. Recommended.

Where to Buy

Here’s where I bought mine (not an affiliate link; it’s just the only place I could find it in stock in Feb 2024). There’s another Yikong model on my ‘to-buy’ list, but it’s a bit bigger than this one! Check out the Yikong 4083 1/8 RC crawler here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

A note on affiliate links: we purchased this vehicle ourselves for test & review purposes. Some of the links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Which RGT Trail Rig is Best for YOU?

by Craig | Dec 17, 2023 | RC Crawlers, RGT

RGT Pro Runner

The RGT Pro Runner EX86130 is just the latest in a growing line of interesting and capable RC crawlers and trail rigs. And hasn’t RGT been on a roll this past year or two!

On our YouTube channel, RGT has featured every now and then when there’s an interesting release to examine. But it was almost as if the company was just warming up for 2023’s big releases that we’re now so lucky to be able to choose from!

RGT’s Other Options

Fans of the channel will recall the well-received RGT Pioneer EX86110, which was arguably a forerunner of the current upper echelon of EX861XX models. (Find our RGT Pioneer video series here). With some careful upgrades on a budget, the Pioneer is an exceptional all-rounder. The EX86010-CJ is also a budget stand-out, while we’re at it. (Video here).

Also, I should note up-front that there’s a gap in our coverage of this family of models: the RGT Tracer EX86180Pro. This is a 4WS-enabled SCX10 Pro type vehicle, and one I think we should try to get hold of in the new year. For now, just be aware that it’s an option for those with a rock-crawling focus rather than trail aspirations.

The Three Contenders

If you love a mix of trail driving and scale rock crawling, things are now very interesting. As of the start of 2024, there are three fantastic models that the discerning RC trail driver and scale crawler driver will want to know about:

RGT Rescuer (EX86190) – buy here
RGT Challenger (EX86170) – buy here
RGT Pro Runner (EX86130) – buy here

Let’s take a look at them!

RGT Rescuer EX86190

There’s a complete article about this model on RC-TNT.com here – have a read when you’re done with this one. The scale crawling and trail driving community had their interest drawn to RGT’s mid-2022 release of the RGT Rescuer (EX86190). And it wasn’t just the attractive 70-series Toyota Landcruiser body – though unlicensed – that made this RC crawler something special. Sporting essentially the same feature set as the full-version Traxxas TRX4, the Rescuer’s scale looks, 2-speed and remote locking diffs made for a very attractive option.

What really stood out to me in my testing of this model was its fun factor. The vehicle rides on 4.75” tires and the live portal axles work under alu-shock, oil-filled, coil-over suspension on all corners. With a moderately high center of gravity, this leads to a scale model that moves pleasingly, with body roll that mimics the real thing. There are many RGT mods available. You can improve the vehicle’s CG (Center of Gravity), for better crawling with some brass parts. Or, you might better light the way with bull bar and roof rack light bars complement the existing light kit. Maybe you want to improve the scale model experience with a complete, polycarbonate interior, with driver. You can do all of this!

RGT Challenger EX86170

On the heels of the Rescuer, RGT next released the Challenger. This was more of a retro style pickup truck and in my opinion, its features put it roughly in between the Rescuer and the Pro Runner. Like the Rescuer, the RGT Challenger sports a pair of portal axles, with a 2-speed transmission that incorporates a DIG (rear axle locking), opposite-spinning drive shafts to minimise torque twist, and a built-in 6.6% overdrive to the front axle.

This attractive machine also sports a rear-facing servo winch, sway bar system on the rear end and a functional light kit! Priced only marginally less than the Rescuer, this is another compelling model. I found there were a few ways to modify this model to make it more convenient to use, but there’s very little this vehicle needs addressing, out of the box. A solid choice.

RGT Pro Runner EX86130

I found the Rescuer to be fun and the Challenger to be quite complete. And so the RGT Pro Runner EX86130 took me quite by surprise, not least because it costs about 20% less than the other two! The Pro Runner is another unlicensed body that looks very close to the Traxxas TRX4 2021 Bronco, even down to the smaller details such as the ABS plastic folding side mirrors and similar front grille. (Quick note: the top photo in this article shows the Pro Runner with different tires. The plastic, silver beadlocks are standard, with the 4.19″ tires. See the rock test video for how good they are).

However, the Pro Runner is special for two reasons, I think. First, the price – in Australia at least, I can buy two Pro Runners for the price of one TRX4 2021 Bronco. That’s already quite significant. Secondly, the feature set – it is vast! Check this out: 2-speed transmission with DIG, 6.6% overdrive and opposing rotation drive-shafts, just like the Challenger; full-function light kit, including brakes and reverse options; straight axles rather than portals for added scale; front-facing servo winch; servo-on-axle hidden in such a way that you’ll miss it if you’re not looking for it; steel universal front axles for greater turning angle and strength than the CVD-equipped Rescuer and Challenger’s portal axles. What a list!

How Do You Choose?

That really is the question, isn’t it? I am in the process of making a video about this, and I suppose writing this article is helpful in distilling my thoughts on this difficult choice. There are some little quality-of-life things, like how the body attaches to each (see the below picture), but the unique blend of features, capability, appearance and handling all add up to something different in each case.

So, I do have some thoughts that you may find useful. I’ll try to use this to guide you on why you may (or may not) decide to select each one. Read on!

Fun

This is the first, and to my mind, most compelling reason to consider any of these vehicles. For trail driving with some crawling, one vehicle really stands out to me: the Rescuer. Why? Consider the remote locking diffs in the portal axles, for a start. The Challenger has portals and the Pro Runner straight axles, but being able to remotely run them unlocked means more scale fun on the trails. When traction gets harder to find, lock one or both ends!

The second part of the fun formula is scale handling to match the gorgeous looks. With the suspension setup on the big, bouncy tires, the Rescuer rolls and moves like few others. I’ve driven this through deep water, mud, rocky ground, and long dirt paths. It just keeps on trucking and it looks great doing it. Vote 1 for Rescuer if you’re shopping for fun!

Modding

There are two kinds of RC crawler owners: those who mod their rigs, and those who just haven’t done it yet. The Challenger is a very complete vehicle out of the box, yes. However, there are a few things you can do to improve its design for easier daily use. I actually cover some of these in my modding video, linked at the end of the article.

But, aside from fixing wiring and putting a body-stand in place, there’s one mod in particular that this vehicle is just begging for: converting that rearward-facing winch to power a rear towing assembly! They’ve actually done most of the work for you already. A boom assembly could be made from aluminum, braised from mild steel, or even achieved with some 3D-printed beams (the last of which I think might be the way I go with it). You already have the winch, so re-route the cable and add a tackle block under the end of the boom and you’ll be done! The Challenger gets my choice as most promising for mods.

Budget All-Rounder

Fun is subjective and not everyone wants to convert a trail rig into a tow-capable machine, I get that. Where I think we’ll all find common ground is on the subject of sheer value for money. On that front, the Pro Runner absolutely and completely delivers.

I took this car with me last weekend to a meet-up with a bunch of folks and we went on a 4-hour mudding adventure in the Aussie bush. Water crossings, treacherous rocky ascents, muddy gullies, greasy clay climbs – this day had it all (video here). I ran the Pro Runner on 3S, which the included WP-1060 allows (and all three vehicles have the same ESC and steering servo, by the way), and this vehicle was reliable and fun. It wasn’t the most capable, with those small 4.19” tires and straight axles, but oh, boy, was it satisfying to wheel. I can’t recommend the Pro Runner enough, if you’re on a budget and want a single all-rounder. Get this, you won’t regret it.

The Bottom Line

So where does that leave us with the choice? Chances are, you already have a pretty good idea of which you prefer after reading the above sections. And if you’re noticing that, wait a minute, none of these three has the remote locking diffs AND a DIG AND portal axles AND a winch, well, yes, you’re right. But not even Axial or Traxxas will give you all that, out of the box. The TRX4 2021 Bronco comes close, as it currently even includes a winch, at time of writing – but no DIG. The Axial SCX10 III gives you DIG and portals, but the diffs are locked full-time. And they are both considerably more expensive than any of the RGT offerings, at least, in Australia.

If you can’t decide and all three grab you, I do have one final suggestion: buy the one that moves you. Pretend you’re going with one of them and see how you feel about not getting either of the others. Repeat for all three vehicles; you may just find you’re most wistful about ‘missing out’ on one of them in particular, and that would be the one to get!

Reviews & Test Videos

Now, if you’ve come this far and you’re pretty sure you know what you want, great! I have a growing catalog of videos that may be useful in helping you get to know any of these three vehicles better. Check them out here:

Trail Run video: coming soon!

Mods video: coming soon!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

A note on affiliate links: although RC-TNT purchased all vehicles in this article, the AsiaTees links contained herein are affiliate links. This means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this. Integrity first, always. We still report on any bugs or issues encountered during product testing, along with fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Element RC Enduro SE Sendero Trail Truck

by Craig | Aug 10, 2023 | Element RC, RC Crawlers, RC Reviews

It’s Enduro SE!

I’ve been calling it the Sendero SE, but it wasn’t until I went to write this article that I realised the truck is called the Enduro SE Sendero. Well, that makes sense, as the Enduro platform is the common layout you’ll find under all of Element RC’s current line of epic rock crawlers and trail trucks, current and retired: the Sendro HD, Gatekeeper, Ecto, Knightrunner, Bushido and now, the Enduro SE. (We’ve looked at ALL of these on the channel).

Available from AsiaTees or Amazon, this rig has been an interesting combination of budget and performance oriented decisions by Team Associated. This more budget-oriented release first hit the shelves in November 2022. Being in Australia, I tend to get new releases up to 6 months after that, and in this case, it was even longer. But it’s finally here and we’ve already had it on the rocks, so I am in a good position now to show you through this one. Let’s dig into what makes the Enduro SE (Sport Edition) a little different from all the other Enduro rigs before it!

Same, But a Little Bit Different

The Element RC Enduro SE Sendero is a trail truck that draws inspiration from the truck styling of the 80s and 90s. This isn’t new to this class of RC vehicle, but there’s a trick to this model. You might expect the closest comparison to be to the Sendero HD, given the name is common to both. (You can find our review of the Sendro HD here, and our video series here).

However, the reality is something quite unexpected. As you’ll see in the video at the end of this article, I found the Enduro SE to be most closely similar to the Axial SCX10 II Deadbolt! We’ll have to do a video comparison on those two rigs as they’re similar in price, setup and performance. That’ll be interesting!

Enduro SE Sendero Body

Unlike the Sendero HD before it, the Enduro SE Sendero boasts a one-piece polycarbonate body. The tube frame and tray are replaced with a drop bed and bumper, which is both durable and aesthetically pleasing. Additionally, underneath both ends of the body you’ll find adjustable bumper mounts with integrated winch line routing for the front.

Much firmer than the bumper on the Sendero HD, the Enduro SE features high-clearance front and rear bumpers that are still flexible, though clearly tough. The same, adjustable-width rock sliders finish out the sides, including slots for the polycarbone body sills to locate snugly. As with the Sendero HD, it looks like there’s room to lower the body a little, and to bring the bumpers in a bit. Both these things will marginally help the car on rock obstacles.

Transmission

New to this Enduro family member is the StealthXF gearbox. It’s a front-facing motor design but still centrally mounted on the skid plate. In a break from other Enduro rigs (all of which have run the StealthX transmission, to date), the Enduro SE gets no overdrive out of the box.

Further, whilst all other Enduro RTRs that I’ve looked at in recent years have come with 5.7% overdrive built-in AND an extra 11.83% overdrive gear set you can install yourself, the Enduro SE comes with no additional gears. If you want overdrive in this one, you’ll have to raid your parts box from other Enduro cars if you’re lucky enough to have another already, or else you’ll need to buy the gears separately.

Drive Train Upgrades

In my opinion: if you do decide to shell out for overdrive gears, go for the 11.83% set – the car is lightweight and not fast, so you won’t feel the shortcomings of having overdrive on the trails, and then when you’re crawling, you’ll really appreciate that more positive steering influence.

Pinion and spur are 48-pitch and the system works well. It’ll tolerate brushless power if you don’t go overboard. The HobbyWing Fusion SE 1800kv would be my pick for this rig, while the higher-power Hobbywing Fusion Pro 2300kv will also give the Enduro SE some hustle on the trails!

Links & Suspension

The Enduro SE Sendero is designed with heavy-duty 5mm diameter steel steering links and aluminum steering plates. It also features optimized ball cups and links that allow for more fluid axle articulation. The suspension system includes threaded shock bodies, mini springs, and a 90mm shock length. The adjustable rear shock mount positions provide flexibility for tuning both the wheelbase and shock angles.

The links are the same spaghetti-type, bendy plastic as found under the Axial Deadbolt. As you’ll see me demonstrate in the video below (it’ll post a few days after this article is published), the links allow considerable amount of lateral movement if you force the axles forward or back. This, combined with the bushings (see next section) really speaks to the more budget nature of this rig. Thankfully, I think these are the two most glaring ‘shortfalls’ of this rig – though not every situation will mean soft links and bushings are a bad thing. The truck is certainly light weight, which contributes greatly to its ability on the rocks! More on that in the video below.

Enduro SE Axles

The truck comes with updated axles, including universal front drive axles and a one-piece rear axle design. The front axle is splined and offers adjustable caster. The gearing system of the Enduro SE Sendero is robust, featuring metal ring and pinion gears, a machined steel top shaft, and a steel servo horn. I’m not too hot on the faux plastic disc brakes and calipers but it’s a tidy setup overall.

They’re straight axles, no portals here! The steering config is servo on axle, which is less scale but generally better performing than CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo) config. It’s a solid setup, I like it.

Bushings, Not Bearings

Be aware that the Enduro SE Sendero ships with 24 bushings rather than the ball bearings we’re used to seeing on the Enduro platform. Before you lose your mind on this point, remember this is a slow vehicle and one that’s likely to encounter mud and water.

The benefit of ball bearings over bushings is lowering resistance, giving you that sliver of extra speed on the racetrack or drag strip. In a crawler, your motor will draw marginally (and I mean marginally) more power to overcome the added resistance from bushings, but I double-dog-dare you to notice the difference. Bushings are low maintenance, too – they can get muddy and wet, even salty, and they won’t rust out and seize, so that’s your silver lining!

Wheels & Tires

The wheels of the Enduro SE Sendero have a 12.8″ wheelbase and are equipped with 12mm wheel hexes. The wheels are plastic and a beadlock design. Shiny black and attractive, these 1.9” units are well-suited to the rig.

The tires are new, and very, very Element. They’re narrow, just like those found on the Deadbolt, incidentally, and they have a repeating Element RC logo all around the center of the treads. They’re a 4.7” size, come with internal foams and the rubber compound is pleasingly soft. Under load on the rocks, the side walls are soft enough to deform, but firm enough to help the rig maintain traction and direction. They’re cheap, on a cheaper rig, but I like ‘em so far!

Electronics

The Enduro SE Sendero is powered by a Reedy 16-turn, 5-slow motor, same as the rest of the Enduro family. The motor is mounted to an aluminum plate, as the backbone of the transmission. As with all the others, it is powered by the same Reedy ESC, too. The electronics are completely adequate for this machine, though they have their limits. Great low-speed control is to be expected from this combo, though it’s low on power, even if you gear it up. It should last a good long time though and it’s a great match to the StealthXF transmission, though there is obvious strain if you run on 3S (12V) power in a heavy crawling scenario – motor and ESC can get properly hot.

The receiver is housed in an enclosed box, while the ESC tray ensures clean wiring. The truck also comes with an additional (wider) battery box. The servo is the same Reedy 1523MG waterproof, metal gear unit found in all the other current Enduro vehicles too. As with the power system, this is quite adequate for this vehicle and should endure even heavy crawling sessions.

Enduro SE Radio

In a departure from the XP130 system that has shipped with all previous Enduro models, Element RC has chosen instead to go with FlySky. The truck comes with a 4-channel FlySky FS-G4P radio system, though it only uses two of the channels. The two unused channels are a three-position switch and a momentary-press button. Nice!

I like FlySky and have many of their radios. Maybe 20 – and that’s just the trasmitters. I’m well familiar with how their AFHDS protocols run (and there are 3 versions of this, plus ANT, in the FlySky range) and all their systems are solid. I have several of this particular radio, which uses the ANT protocol (hackers rejoice). It’s solid, fast enough and comes with numerous adjustments as you’d expect from any modern 2.4G radio. It’s a good pairing with the truck. It takes 4x AA batteries and is comfy in the hand, plastic wheel notwithstanding.

In The Box

There are two versions of the Enduro SE Sendero, but both have the same vehicle and radio. The standard version gives you the truck, radio, body mounts, shock pieces for full coil-overs if you change to that, a spare body cross member and a wider battery tray. There’s a manual, sticker sheet, SCX480X ESC manual and FlySky radio system manual. Lastly, some basic allen keys are included, to fit the rig. The other version is the LiPo Combo, which includes a compact balance charge and LiPo battery.

Both versions give you the now-standard Element RC box which doubles as a parking garage if you reverse the box – and its different for every model from the Enduro range. A bit of fun!

So, How’s It Drive?

The big question! This is best covered in our video review, which incorporates a rock test and copious opinions on the vehicle. It will be posted within a few days of this article being published. Catch you there!

Our Test Course

If you’re not familiar with how we test RC rock crawlers, we have a course that challenges any 4x4 RC crawler in many ways:

Approach and departure angle: these are challenged on Problems 2 and 3;
Side-hill ability: tested on Problems 1, 3 and 5;
Breakover (skid clearance): tested on Problems 4 and 6;
Suspension articulation and centre of gravity: challenged on problems 2 and 5; and lastly,
A punishing ascent on problem 6 tests all of balance, break-over, articulation, tire traction and approach and departure angles.

Get One!

Check the manufacturer page for specific details if you’re after more: https://www.associatedelectrics.com/element/cars_and_trucks/Enduro/SE_Sendero/

Buy an Element RC Enduro SE Sendero Trail Truck RTR from AsiaTees or Amazon. These are affiliate links that help support RC-TNT at no extra cost to you. Thank you for using them, if you do so!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Redcat Gen9 Scale Trail Truck

by Craig | Jul 26, 2023 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Redcat Racing

A Detailed Look at Redcat’s Latest

The Redcat Gen9 is the long-anticipated successor to the Gen8 V2. We had to wait a while in Australia to get it, but now it’s finally here! This new model is more than just a Gen8 V2 with a different body. It’s a whole new beast, sporting a new Scout model body and a host of updated features underneath. Let’s dive in and see what makes the Gen9 a worthy addition to the Redcat Racing lineup.

My favourite global hobby store, AsiaTees, sells both the blue and gray variant of this lovely new rig. And on Amazon, TREAL already has a bunch of shiny new goodies for it.

What’s New with the Gen9?

The first thing you’ll notice about the Gen9 is its new body, modelled after the International Scout 800A. This model is slightly smaller than the Scout II, which allowed Redcat to tweak the front and rear bumper setups and enhance the already impressive approach angle performance of the Gen8. But the new body is just the tip of the iceberg.

The Gen9 also boasts a two-speed transmission, V3 portal axles, new tires (that look suspiciously close to the tread on the Marksman we reviewed last year), beadlock wheels, and an entirely new body mounting system, not seen on any other rigs to date. There’s an interior now, too – a big jump over the previous models in the series. If you’re a fan of the Gen8, you’ll find many familiar parts in the Gen9. Even as a Gen8 V2 owner myself, there are plenty of new features or updates to make the Gen9 a worthwhile investment.

A Closer Look at the Gen9 Body

Redcat has upped the ante with the design and construction of the Gen9 body, thanks to their experience with their R/C lowrider lineup. The Gen9 International Scout 800A body is a multi-part piece that offers a detailed interior and exterior with ample room for customization. The open-cage design provides an excellent view of the interior, which includes a steering wheel, shift levers, door handles, and pedals. The only other trail rig that offers this level of scale detail is the SCX10 III Early Ford Bronco and some of the Cross RC models, such as the EMO XT4 (which we have here but it’s unbuilt – must get around to that one!).

The exterior of the Gen9 also features scale details, but they may not be as durable as you’d like. Side mirrors and door handles add visual interest to the body, but they may not withstand rough handling. Our unit has arrived intact, but I’ve read of numerous others who’ve received broken mirrors or door handles out of the box. Thankfully, Redcat includes a few extra parts in case you need them. I’d suggest keeping the mirrors aside until you get your rougher trail driving done! (Or look at hinged or rubber alternatives, like this handy 5-pack).

Lights and Colors

There are light buckets for 2x white LEDs on each side up front, and 1x red and 1x white reverse LED on each side of the rear. The side signals at front and rear of the body are stickers only. But, there are also two light buckets behind the dash! I’ve just gotta work out how to open it all up – it isn’t obvious and the manual gives no clues. I’ll cover this in a future video and/or article here on rc-tnt.com.

The Gen9 body comes in two color options: Metallic Blue and Graphite. Both are eye-catching, and Redcat includes two decal sheets so you can personalize your rig right out of the box. There aren’t instructions included but the box art gives you some idea of how you might go about it. You could also image-search the web for ‘IH Scout II’ for some inspiration. The body mounting system has also been redesigned, making it easier to access the internals of the rig. Two swivel latches secure the front of the body, and releasing them allows the body to be tipped toward the rear and removed from the chassis. Some have noted the front swivel pins can get loose with driving, but ours have been firm so far!

Under the Hood: The Gen9 Chassis

At first glance, the Gen9 and Gen8 chasses may look similar. Both feature a traditional H-ladder setup with full fenders and sideboards. The motor and transmission are in about the same spot. But a closer look reveals a small shift servo for the two-speed transmission and rock light ports on top of every inner fender. The portal axles have also been adjusted to improve durability, tracking, and steering performance. There’s a new servo, too! More on that in a moment.

These updates may not be visually striking, but they significantly impact the Gen9’s driving experience. The truck’s weight is certainly hefty for a ready-to-run (RTR) model. It’s heavy, at about 4kg, but the weight distribution is reasonably low and centered. The car is a little roll-over happy, but it’s not a chronic issue. That is, until you start making turns in 2^nd gear! That’s another story.

The most significant performance change between the Gen9 and its predecessor is the two-speed transmission. The first gear is similar to the standard gearing of the Gen8, which is great for crawling but leaves something to be desired for trail use. This is a big point for the Gen9 over the Gen8, as second gear offers a fun, faster than walking speed experience. This feature is great for trail enthusiasts or those who want to let loose occasionally. Just don’t get carried away or you’ll be buying new side mirrors!

Redcat Gen9 Wheels and Tires

The Gen9’s tire choice is another departure from the Gen8. The Redcat team chose a 1.9″ version of the Interco Super Swamper SS M16, and I’ve just gone and looked – yep, it is the same tire found on their 1/8-scale TC8 Marksman, but in 1.9 instead of 2.2. This tire offers reasonable traction for both crawling and normal trail use. The wheels have also been updated with a faux outer beadlock ring for added scale. The actual bead locking is achieved from the rear of the wheels.

The tires of the Gen8 were fairly poor. We did a big tire test in 2021 that covered the Swampers from the Gen8 and they came up poorly overall. We do have an upcoming ‘biggest on YouTube’ tire test this year that’ll test more tires than ever before in one series and we’ll include this set in that test for reference. I’ll update this article with a link when it’s done.

The Gen9’s Radio System

DumboRC has been making its way into many RTR configurations over 2022 and 2023. It’s good to see Redcat jump onto this as well. The Gen8 V2 came with the AFHDS protocol of the older FlySky system, which made it inconvenient for binding to newer radios. Now that DumboRC is commonplace, there’s a heap of flexibility out of box with this system.

You not only get the 5-ch receiver with the Gen9, but it’s the light-control variant as well, with an entirely separate, dedicated row of pins just for LEDs in the car. On the transmitter, only three channels are active in the default configuration. You can easily add a fourth and there’s even a Channel 5 dial under the cover of the radio. I’m unsure if this works yet, but when I get to testing it, I’ll update the article (yep, Ch5 is a dial-controlled channel with full functionality). The third channel controls the two-speed transmission servo via the left blue button on top of the unit. The two auxiliary channel buttons are easy to find and use, and they light up when activated, so you can easily tell what gear you’re in. Good!

Redcat Gen9 Moving Parts

Portal axles grant clearance without hurting center of gravity too much and the metal diff plates are a nice touch. If construction and materials are at least as good as the Gen8 V2, then this drive train will be a solid and reliable performer.

There’s finally a better servo for steering than Redcat has done before – see the woeful unit on the Marksman, for example. They’ve been underwhelming for a few years now. To finally see a metal geared, metal cased, waterproof and 8.4v capable unit is awesome. It even gets to 42kg/cm of torque at 8.4v – what a turnaround from Redcat’s previous fare!

Drive shafts are plastic but tough. Axle components are also solid and the stainless steel links and ball ends are stainless steel. It’s a decent package all round, especially given the price. Even if this rig was $449, this would be a positive review of this vehicle. But the model is surprisingly good for its RRP of just $399 (and selling for less from some dealers).

Crawling and Trail Performance

The Gen9 shines when it hits the trail. The two-speed transmission is a standout feature, as the Gen8 was either fast and bad at crawling or slow but frustrating on the trail. The simple addition of the 2-speed is a winner. The first gear is perfect for smooth, low-speed crawling, while the second gear lets the rig move at impressive speeds. Despite its weight, this rig can really move.

When it comes to crawling performance, the Gen9 is excellent. After the Gen8 V2 was capable but not exceptional out of the box, the Gen9 has been a real surprise. I’d put it nearly on the level of the TRX4 Sport. The 1.9″ Interco SS M16 tires have an aggressive tread pattern and a high grip compound, allowing the rig to navigate obstacles with ease, even in challenging conditions. They’re not the all-rounders of the Traxxas Canyon Trails, but they’re a real improvement over the Gen8 V2’s tires. (See our Gen8 V2 review here). For more on performance testing, see our video (posted at the end of the article once it releases).

Final Thoughts on the Gen9

The Redcat Gen9 is an impressive machine at an impressive price. For USD$399.99, you get a capable crawler and trail truck with features typically found in higher-priced models. It’s a great 1/10-scale rig for outdoor driving, whether in your yard or on the trail. With plenty of room for customization, the Gen9 offers solid performance and stunning visuals. That’s a win-win in our book.

For more information about the Redcat Gen9 International Scout 800A, see https://www.redcatracing.com/products/gen9. Get yours here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

A note on affiliate links: the Amazon and AsiaTees links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Cross RC EMO X: Epic 8th Scale!

by Craig | May 20, 2023 | Cross RC, RC Crawlers, RC Reviews

Introduction

Cross RC EMO X is not the first model to have EMO in the name. In the past, we’ve examined the EMO AT4. (You can find the review here, along with a video). Until now, the EMO range has been a 1/10 scale family of crawlers. They’re known for their rugged capability and impressive features like remote locking differentials and two-speed transmissions above portal axles. However, the Cross RC EMO X breaks from this, hulking up to 1/8 scale. This is not your average RC crawler— it’s so much bigger!

Overview

With a weight of 17lb (7.7kg) and dimensions 575 x 300 x 271mm, the EMO X commands attention wherever it goes. She’s a hefty beastie!

It comes in three striking colors: Bright Yellow, Metallic Blue, and Silver. Its design blends aggressive lines with the classic appearance of a rugged off-road truck. Note, there’s no licensed branding on this vehicle.

Equipped with features like a simulated driver, hidden body mounts and a full-size spare tire, the EMO X is thoughtfully designed. The shell is a mix of high-quality polycarbonate (or ‘Lexan’) and durable plastic pieces, ensuring exceptional ruggedness and longevity.

Cross RC Swag!

Inside the Cross RC EMO X box, you’ll find an assortment of items. Alongside the impressive RC crawler itself, you’ll receive a set of quality Cross RC tools, a Cross RC baseball cap and Cross RC lanyard. None of this is necessary but it’s all awesome! There’s also a styrene ‘EMO-X’ piece still on its parts tree off-cut. Then, there’s all the usual inclusions you would expect. Notably, the manual provided is comprehensive and detailed, enabling you to disassemble and rebuild the vehicle with confidence. The sticker sheets are nice, too.

Radio

The EMO X is equipped with a 6-channel 2.4g transmitter and receiver, made by DumboRC. This one is special in that it delivers something I wish more manufacturers would do: every switch or button is clearly labelled! That’s super helpful. The other feature I love that DumboRC does is the buttons will light up when they’re engaged. No more guesswork on whether a diff is locked or what gear you’re in. I love it!

This handset series is known for providing reliable and responsive control. With its independent lock control, you have the ability to control the front and rear differentials separately or engage both simultaneously. You also have high and low gear and a light mode control button – more on that below. The trigger and wheel feel good in the hand and the handset takes 4x AA batteries. For an RTR radio, wow, this one sure is nice!

Body Details

The EMO X stands out with its impressive design and durable construction. It features a simulated racing driver, adding a touch of realism. The hidden mounts keep the body securely fastened during intense off-road driving. The full-size spare tire enhances its rugged appearance – the tire lugs are properly chunky!

A light control module is mounted underneath the shell and all wiring is routed neatly, helping keep things from catching where they shouldn’t. The body connects via a single Futaba-style radio plug that detaches easily when you remove the body, but otherwise stays connected.

There are detailed plastic trim pieces all around and even a metal front grille, next to trick, multi-feature headlights. Typical for Cross RC, this body is a smart and durable unit and it looks great.

Chassis

The EMO X incorporates a low center of gravity layout, enhancing stability and control. The strategic placement of the battery at the front between the shock towers allows for easy adjustment of the vehicle’s climbing characteristics. Use a smaller battery to improve CoG or slap a bigger brick in for longer running. Being over the front axles, the extra weight isn’t as bad as if it was over the rear.

The rig has a 375mm wheelbase, solid axle suspension system, stainless steel link rods, front panhard bar, rear 4 link and rear balance bar. It’s a rigid chassis with metal where its needed and flexible but strong plastic where weight-saving is more important. The bumpers blend well with the body and overall the rig has a durable feel. I hadn’t driven it at this part of the inspection and it was already looking like being one of my favorite crawlers.

Transmission & Drive Train

The EMO X boasts a robust transmission and drive train. Cross RC has a lot of history delivering reliable power delivery the EMO X will be no different:

Big Motor & Tough Parts

The 4X4 drive system of the EMO X is equipped with a 25-Turn 560-size brushed motor. It’s mated to a 2-speed transmission, featuring metal gears throughout. This combination offers excellent torque at a slightly reduced acceleration potential (longer motor means more mass – a good choice for this rig). The CVD drive shafts and metal u-joints, sealed bearings and friendly gearing ratios contribute to the overall durability and reliability of the power delivery system.

Lockable Portal Axles

One notable feature of the EMO X is its lockable portal axles. These axles have durable, nylon housings and metal internal gears. Portals give you increased ground clearance and improved torque delivery, eliminating torque twist. The lockable differential feature ensures maximum traction and improved maneuverability in demanding terrains. Plus, you know, it’s fun! With the ability to remotely lock and unlock the differentials, you have greater control over the power distribution to the wheels. It’s not for everyone, but I’ve always been a fan.

Transmission & Slipper

The transmission and drive train components of the EMO X have been designed for durability and performance. Finger-friendly, adjustable slipper clutch, strengthened 60t spur gear, and 20t metal pinion gear comprise the main input. The final drive ratio, with options of 17.8 (high speed) and 38.9 (low speed), provides the flexibility to adapt to various terrains and driving conditions.

More Than Its Parts

The combination of the 2-speed transmission, lockable portal axles, and reliable drive train components ensures that the EMO X is ready to conquer any off-road challenge. Whether you’re crawling over rocks, navigating steep inclines, or powering through muddy trails, the EMO X’s transmission and drive train deliver the power and control you need for thrilling off-road adventures.

Lighting System

The EMO X is equipped with an impressive lighting system. It is conveniently controlled by a single channel, which can be operated through a button on the radio transmitter, clearly marked with a light symbol. You can cycle through the various lighting modes available on the vehicle with a single button press.

One of the notable features of the lighting system is the position lights. When you’re crawling or navigating challenging terrain, these lights blink to provide enhanced visibility. In addition to the standard position lights, the EMO X features an angel eye position light, which adds a unique touch to its overall appearance.

The lighting system is designed to illuminate in a specific sequence. Initially, you will have just the position lights activated, followed by low beam lights, and finally, the third position will engage the full power forward lights. The rear lighting setup is equally impressive. It completes the overall lighting package of the vehicle, ensuring that it stands out even from behind.

Links & Suspension

The EMO X features a well-designed suspension system that ensures optimal performance and durability during off-road driving. The rear suspension utilizes a standard 4-link setup with coil-over shocks, providing excellent articulation and control. However, what sets the EMO X apart is the unique addition of what Cross RC calls the ‘balance bar’.

What Linkage?

The ‘balance bar’ consists of a link connected to each end of the axle, which then connects to a center-mounted pivot arm on the chassis. This innovative design allows for a dynamic response when encountering uneven terrain. Believe it or not, this design is hundreds of years old! (See Watt’s Linkage on Wikipedia). When one side of the axle is raised, the center bar pivots, drawing the other side of the axle up slightly. Essentially, this system performs somewhat like a sway bar or anti-roll bar.

The rear balance bar offers several benefits to the EMO X’s overall performance. Firstly, it enhances stability by minimizing body roll and controlling the weight transfer during cornering or uneven surfaces. The pivoting action of the center bar effectively counteracts the forces exerted on the vehicle, resulting in improved handling and traction.

Another notable advantage of this system is its ruggedness and simplicity. Traditional sway bar systems can sometimes become stuck or damaged by mud or debris encountered during off-road driving. In contrast, the EMO X’s rear balance bar utilizes larger-sized materials and a straightforward mechanical design, making it considerably more robust. This ensures that the suspension system remains functional even in demanding off-road conditions, providing reliable performance without compromising durability.

Overall

The combination of the standard 4-link suspension setup, coil-over shocks, and the rear balance bar makes the EMO X a capable and reliable off-road crawler. The suspension system allows for excellent articulation and control, while the rear balance bar adds an extra layer of stability and control during challenging maneuvers. Whether you’re navigating rocky trails, crawling over obstacles, or tackling uneven terrain, the EMO X’s suspension system ensures a smooth and controlled ride.

Servos

The EMO X is equipped with high-quality servos that not only deliver precise and accurate control but also offer convenient operation. One of the standout features of the EMO X’s servos is their differential lock control, which requires no trimming or end point adjustment. These servos are designed to “just work” at 100% EPA (End Point Adjustment) due to their mechanically adjustable design.

Unlike some other RC crawlers that may require manual adjustments and fine-tuning to achieve optimal performance, the EMO X simplifies the process. With the differential lock servos set at 100% stroke, you can rest assured that they will operate flawlessly without the need for additional adjustments. This ensures optimal performance without the risk of burning out the servos or compromising their functionality.

The innovative self-lubricating steel wire assembly of the differential lock servos makes them water and dust-proof, allowing for quick and secure locking in seconds. This means that you can engage or disengage the differential locks effortlessly, enhancing the versatility and excitement of your off-road adventures.

With a 6-channel remote control, you can independently lock the front and rear differentials. The radio will indicate what’s happening under the car. Honestly, it’s a simple but brilliant system.

The steering servo is a 23kg coreless unit with alu housing. Part of why I like Cross RC so much is their choice to not scrimp on components where they could have. The ESC and motor are premium, as are the servos here. Awesome.

Wheels & Tires

The EMO X is equipped with Cross RC Talon 136X55 R2.2 high-performance crawler tires mounted on 2.2″ bead lock wheels. These tires are specifically designed to deliver superior grip and durability. With their larger studs, snow lines, and high-grip tire wall, they provide exceptional traction on a variety of surfaces. Measuring 136mm in diameter and 55mm in width, these tires offer compatibility with common 2.2-inch wheels in the market. The lightweight nylon clip wheel hubs reduce the load on the shaft and enhance the dynamic performance of the vehicle.

Conclusion

The Cross RC EMO X 1/8 RTR RC Crawler is an outstanding off-road vehicle that exceeds expectations in terms of build quality, advanced features, and thrilling performance. Its exceptional design, durable construction, and attention to detail make it a dream come true for off-road enthusiasts seeking something a bit bigger than the norm. From its rugged appearance and imposing presence to its innovative components and precise control, the EMO X is ready to unleash your passion for off-road exploration like never before.

Cross RC has once again proven its commitment to delivering outstanding RC crawlers with the EMO X. So, gear up, take the wheel, and let the EMO X take you on unforgettable off-road journeys. It’s time to explore new horizons and push the limits of your off-road adventures with the Cross RC EMO X 1/8 RTR RC Crawler.

Find the Manufacturer’s website for this rig here: https://www.crossrc.us/shop/emo-x-rtr/

This is not a sponsored article. We bought this one at full price. Stay tuned for the running and review video, which we’ll link here soon (late May 2023). Thanks for reading!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

LiPo Batteries: A Quick Primer

by Craig | Apr 30, 2023 | RC Crawlers, RC Off-Road, RC On Road

What Are LiPo Batteries?

LiPo is short for Lithium Polymer. It’s a type of rechargeable battery that is commonly used in radio-controlled (RC) vehicles and other electronic devices, likely including the phone or laptop you may be using to read this article. LiPo batteries are popular due to this battery chemistry’s high energy density, which means they can store a large amount of energy in a small package. LiPo is basically lightweight, packs a punch and is cheap to produce.

There are some downsides to the battery type, which we’ll get to below. The short version is that LiPo is usually the best battery type to use for RC models.

Why Are LiPo Batteries Good?

LiPo batteries have several advantages over other types of batteries that are commonly used in RC vehicles, such as nickel-cadmium (NiCad – not so common anymore) and nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries. They are lightweight, have a higher energy density, and can be shaped to fit into tight spaces. They also have a low self-discharge rate, which means they will retain a charge for a longer period of time when not in use.

LiPo batteries are largely fabulous. I have over 100 of them in my battery storage safe and they’ve transformed the hobby for me, personally. So much portable power in just the right size and capacity? Yes, please! They’re light, power-dense, and flexible in design possibilities. What’s the catch?

Why Are LiPo Batteries Bad?

Well, I’ve dumbed it down a little, here. LiPo isn’t ‘good’ or ‘bad’, but consequences of mistreatment certainly can be bad. There’s inconvenience and then there’s danger.

Inconvenience first: any kind of lithium cell is best stored at its nominal voltage. For LiPo batteries, that means storing the battery at 3.8v per cell. For a 2-cell battery, that means storing at 7.4v (2x 3.8v). We’ll cover more below, but don’t overlook the question of storage. Many articles and videos do overlook it, and even the quick USB chargers that come with so many models don’t even have a storage charge feature, but it does matter. LiPo batteries don’t like being stored at full or empty charge. They want to be stored at about half charge.

Danger should maybe get its own section, but in short, if a LiPo is damaged or severely overcharged, fire is a possibility. More in the next section…

Safety and LiPo Batteries

LiPo batteries require special care and handling to ensure their safe and proper use. They can be damaged if overcharged, over-discharged, or exposed to high temperatures. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and use a proper charger to ensure the safe and long-lasting use of these batteries.

Generally speaking, this means you want to store your LiPo batteries using the Storage function of your charger (and get a Storage capable charger as a top priority if you don’t have one already!)

If you need a charger, these are two of my favorites:

SkyRC iMAX B6 (6A max current, full featured); and,
SkyRC T200 1000W Dual (12A x2).

Always charge under supervision and use LiPO Safe Bags for charging and storage (pictured below). These fiberglass reinforced bags help contain fire, in the very unlikely event one may occur.

Charging Safely

The safest way to charge LiPo batteries is to:

Use a special charger made for LiPo batteries;
Connect the balance lead of the battery to the charger;
Use the balance program on the charger;
Charge at 1C (at 5A if its a 5000mAh, for example);
Use a fire-proof container or surface to charge the battery;
Never leave the battery charging unattended. No, really. Be nearby!

By using the balance lead and the balance program on the charger, you can ensure that all the cells in the battery have the same level of charge throughout the charge cycle, preventing dangerous situations due to individual cell overcharging or imbalance. Additionally, only use a charger specifically designed for LiPo batteries like the ones linked above.

Here’s one of the first videos I ever made about LiPos and charging. It’s an older one now, but might be useful for context. The process hasn’t changed!

What Makes a LiPo Battery?

LiPo batteries are typically available in several different configurations, including single cell (1S), two-cell (2S), three-cell (3S), and so on. The voltage of a LiPo battery is determined by the number of cells it has. For example, a single cell LiPo battery has a voltage of 3.7V, while a two-cell (2S) LiPo battery has a voltage of 7.4V, and so on.

As well as cell count (the ‘S’ number), there’s also the discharge potential (or, the ‘C’ number). Discharge is relevant insofar as you need to know the battery can give enough power to your model in any given moment. Consider how little power a phone with a LiPo battery might draw, remembering that this one battery will power the handset all day. The phone will never pull more than maybe a tenth of the total battery capacity in any instant, even under heavy load.

Some RC models have beefy motors and significant overall mass. This can result in the vehicle needing to pull a significant amount of power in an instant, such as under heavy acceleration. Maybe you’re trying to see how fast a car can go? That’s a drag-strip worth of heavy discharge, potentially. The ‘C’ rating helps you determine whether your battery is up to such a task – higher C number means more discharge potential, which is good.

C Rating in More Detail

A battery with a C rating of 1C means that it can discharge its entire capacity in one hour, while a battery with a C rating of 2C can discharge its entire capacity in half an hour. Take this further – a C rating of 60 is a theoretical claim that a battery can deliver its entire capacity in a single minute!

LiPo battery cells max out at about 75C. There are ways to get a higher C rating than 75 or so. Some batteries, like the Ovonic we reviewed here, use two parallel cells in the battery for each cell, which is how they can claim 100C, for example. A higher C rating means that the battery can discharge its energy more quickly, which is important for high-performance applications such as RC racing.

$Arrma Infraction 6S$

What Next?

Here’s a recent article I wrote about one general-purpose LiPo battery which also has more detail about battery history and usage. Check it out!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

RC Crawling – What’s the Big Deal?

by Craig | Apr 10, 2023 | RC Crawlers

RC Crawling: What Is It?

RC crawling is all about controlling remote controlled vehicles through rough terrain. The focus is on trail driving and clearing rock obstacles – and it’s generally quite relaxing! These vehicles are typically built on a scale of between 1:6 and 1:24 – that’s very large to very small. They are built with high-torque motors and low-geared transmission to aid climbing over rocks, logs, and other obstacles. RC crawlers are typically not fast cars.

Many RC hobbyists enjoy the challenge of navigating difficult terrain and the realism of the crawling experience. There are also competitions and events organized specifically for RC crawling. Scale realism and performance are two common goals in competition, whilst for relaxation, it is a popular passtime to simply drive a scale crawler along a forest or rocky trail.

There is no right or wrong way to enjoy the hobby. Playing with toy trucks is rarely Serious Business, though many find that getting detailed or driving under competition rules is part of the fun!

Is It Real or RC?

RC crawlers have a functional scale suspension system that allows the vehicle to flex and adapt to the terrain, providing traction and stability whilst looking realistic. The designs often match those found in full-size vehicles and can vary as much as they do in real life, with leaf and coil suspension being commonly found under these scale tiny trucks. Many people enjoy building their RC crawlers to closely resemble the real thing on which their models are based.

DIY is a big part of the hobby. Folks get involved with 3D printing, working with styrene sheets, paints, metalwork and even wood. Your imagination is the limit where customizing a truck is concerned, and the delight of sharing your creations online and on the trails with others adds value for many. The hobby continues to improve as more manufacturers bring creative and realistic models and parts to market. I often find myself thinking, ‘what a time to be into RC crawling!’

Variety Adds Spice

RC crawlers come in various shapes and sizes. Ranging from small, compact models to large, highly detailed models that can weigh several pounds, there’s nearly endless choice. Popular models are based on real-life, off-road vehicles such as four wheel drives, military and civilian trucks, SUVs, competition crawlers and more.

The smallest models are pocket sized – that’s 1/87. They tend to be very custom DIY builds and while there are some kits for this scale, it’s an advanced project to try. A more common small size is 1/24, which is convenient backpack size and will typically fit on an adult’s open hand.

The larger models are 1/10 scale and these are arguably the most common scale – though 1/24 has exploded in popularity over 2022 and 2023.

The real big ones are 1/8 and 1/6 scale. The best known big crawler at time of writing is the SCX6, from Axial. (Our video series for that is here).

Gettin’ Technical

RC crawling might be considered a more technical and challenging aspect of the RC hobby. It requires precise control and a good understanding of the vehicle’s capabilities and limitations. However, the stakes are low, as unlike with high-speed models, if you mess up, you can simply try again. Damage happens, but it’s far more rare than with big air or high speed models.

As well as the attraction of slow going, many enthusiasts enjoy the challenge of navigating difficult terrain. For me and many others, an attraction is the realism of the crawling experience. Make the truck look real and you can get lost in the fantasy of driving – it really is quite relaxing.

There are also many competitions and events organized specifically for RC crawling, where participants can showcase their skills and compete against others. Some of my best memories from this hobby are at the various interstate and even international crawling events I’ve attended. If you can make it to any kind of comp with whatever rig you may have, I do recommend it!

The Popular Group

The hobby has grown popular over the years. Many RC enthusiasts are building and modifying their own RC crawlers to make them more capable and realistic. This include adding lights, sound, and even cameras to make the experience more immersive. You can find an overview of how things got started in our video about the RC4WD Trail Finder 3.

Of course, the RTR (Ready To Run) side of things continues to improve, too. It used to be that the only ‘good’ models were those you built yourself. Things have changed and now you can get a properly tough and capable model out of the box. Plastics engineering and electronics have come a long way since the 80s and 90s! Tires and drive-trains have improved too, and radio systems are easier than ever to use. Batteries last longer and models look more realistic, even mass-produced units. It’s hard not to be excited about the future when things are already so good now!

But Is It Worth My Time?

In a word, Yes!

In more words, Absolutely Yes! and I Highly Recommend It!!

Alongside the hard-body models from RC4WD and Cross RC, I’d also recommend you look into the Traxxas TRX-4, the Axial SCX10 III, RGT’s range, Element RC’s Enduro platform and and Redcat Racing’s Gen7, Gen8 and Gen9. These are all highly customizable and durable RC vehicles that are specifically designed for rock crawling and are popular among hobbyists and enthusiasts.

Now, if you’re wondering whether RC crawling might be for you, consider reading our article, Is RC Crawling Fun?

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

The Best Battery for RC ?

by Craig | Nov 2, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Off-Road, RC Reviews

Ovonic 2S 5800mAh 100C

Today we’re taking a look at Ovonic (or Ampow in USA, CAN and UK markets) lithium polymer batteries. Recently they sent us their latest high performance 2S battery, a soft-cell 5800mAh 100C pack with a 2S2P configuration. They sent two of them, in fact.

Today we’re going to take a close look at these shiny new Ovonic packs. We’ll put them through their paces and evaluate how well they deliver on their spec sheets’ claims. But first, some history and context…

Power Struggle

The highest performance RC models are but shelf queens without a power source. I recall back in the 80s and 90s I used to dream of runtime longer than 7 or 8 minutes. I was stuck with NiCADs with my first RC models – Nickel Cadmium – a battery chemistry that is capable of high discharge but low capacity. That’s not to mention the memory effect, something I’m so pleased we don’t need to worry about anymore!

NiCADs could pack a punch but their power density was low, so they didn’t last long. When they were charged up, though, you really got some fun out of them! They were the best batteries for RC at that time. Still, they left you wanting.

Back to the 80s: the Tamiya Bigwig!

The Next Generation

In the late 90s and through the next decade, we hobbyists were increasingly using NiMH – Nickel Metal Hydride – cells. Racers still used NiCADs for their high discharge capability. But for the rest of us, NiMH packs had a higher power density than NiCAD batteries, but a lower discharge ceiling. In other words, our model runtime improved with the NiMH cells. Also, there was no more memory effect (woohoo!). These were the new best batteries for RC!

The downside was somewhat slower models, as the discharge potential from NiMH is lower than NiCAD and they just couldn’t dump the same instant power into the speed controllers. Still, that extra runtime was a real win.

Present Day

The revolution came with the advent of Lithium Polymer batteries – LiPOs! Lithium Ion and LiPO battery packs are similar in that they cannot be discharged completely without suffering internal damage. They also don’t like being full for too long. Importantly, lithium-based batteries need to be balanced across the individual cells inside a given battery pack during charge and discharge process. Many early battery packs did not have a balance lead to help keep this in check, leading to many of the horror stories of people’s garages or houses burning down.

Thankfully, things changed quickly as the market demanded safer options. Batteries came with balance leads and chargers came with balance ports. Now, lithium batteries could be charged and balanced safely. This was huge. These are now the best batteries for RC!

Why LiPO is King

Lithium polymer batteries are revolutionary to RC due to their power density that exceeds that of NiMH and their discharge potential that rivals and sometimes exceeds that of NiCAD. With no memory effect and the flexibility to ‘build’ a LiPO cell in 3.7v increments, LiPO batteries deliver the best of both NiCAD and NiMH worlds.

Fast forward to today and there is nearly endless choice of LiPO batteries for our RC models. Although we’ve been at the limit of chemical engineering with regards to power density and associated capacity and discharge potential, not all LiPOs are created equal.

What’s In a Battery?

There are three main factors that determine how a LiPO battery will perform. First, you should know that lithium-polymer chemistry has a nominal voltage of 3.7V and a working range of 3.0V to 4.2V (you can go lower or higher than that range but it brings risk of damaging the cell). Here are the three main factors we use to measure LiPO batteries:

Cell count: how many cells a LiPO battery has. The cell count of a battery is denoted with ‘S’. So, a 1S battery will be a LiPO with a single cell. A 2S battery will be a 7.4v battery with a working range of 6v to 8.4v. A 3S battery will be an 11.1v battery with a range of 9v to 12.6v, and so on.
Capacity: how much power does the battery contain? This is measured in milliamp hours, or mAh. More mAh means longer runtime, but also means a bigger physical pack. The smallest LiPO batteries in the RC hobby are 50 to 100mAh 1S batteries that are usually in tiny scale cars and quadcopters. The batteries I use in competition rock crawling are 450mAh to 700mAh, while the pack size commonly used in trail driving and in ‘bashers’ (faster, muck-around buggies and trucks) is typically 4000mAh to 7000mAh.
Discharge potential: also known as a battery’s ‘C rating’, discharge potential is denoted by a number next to ‘C’. The C-rating is a number times the pack’s capacity. For example, a 2000mAh 50C battery should be able to deliver 100 amps, or 50x its 2000mAh capacity.

Performance & Runtime

If you want to run for longer, it’s usually as simple as getting the biggest pack that fits your vehicle. This is with the proviso that the battery’s C-rating is sufficient to meet the power draw of whatever vehicle it’s powering. If this is not the case, you’ll have poor performance at best or a failed battery (sometimes violently so) at worst. Crawlers usually only need a 30C pack, but some high-performance machines might need 50C or better. Bashers and high-performance quadcopters should be given the highest C-rated battery you can afford. This is how you find the best battery for RC for your application.

The runtime a battery can deliver is a function of its capacity and its quality. I’m not a chemist but I have years of experience working with batteries, alongside my hobby pursuits. In my experience I’ve consistently found that a higher C-rated battery will generally last longer in a high-drain application than a low C-rated battery of same rated capacity. As long as your C-rating is sufficient for the vehicle, the only other factor to consider is weight. Bigger batteries weigh more, so there’s a trade-off in performance whether its in the air, on the rocks or on the race track.

What’s the Best Battery for RC?

This brings us to the focus of today’s article: the new Ovonic 2S 5800mAh 100C LiPO battery. Since you now know what the numbers mean in its label, you may be able to tell that these Ovonic batteries are best suited for bashing or larger trail rigs.

It’s a 2-cell battery, meaning 7.4v nominal. The 5800mAh capacity means it’ll be a long-lasting pack and 100C means it can theoretically deliver 100x its capacity in a moment – 580 amps, in this case. It may not be able to actually meet that level, as I suspect 70C may be about as high as lithium polymer cells can realistically deliver, but nonetheless, 100C means it should be about as high quality as this battery chemistry allows.

Does this battery actually deliver on those specs? Is it the best battery for RC bashing and trail driving? We put it to the test to find out. Check out our video below and if you’re interested in trying one of these for yourself, you can buy it here.

A spoiler: I really like these batteries and will personally be using more Ovonic LiPOs in future. These have been perfect. Our thanks to Ovonic for supplying them for review – knowing how good they are, I’m going to buy more!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Redcat Marksman 1/8 RC Crawler

by Craig | Aug 29, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Redcat Racing

What Is It?

The Redcat Marksman is a different RTR RC crawler in more ways than its 1/8 scale size. It sports a (mostly) decent electronics package and 2.2” wheels. A pretty body with paint on the outside gives the polycarbonate body an interesting finish.

Whilst not a flawless execution, there’s a compelling case to be made for price to performance, especially if you’re after a trail-oriented rig. Join us as we take a closer look at this interesting, larger-scale crawler.

How Big Is It?

For some comparison, we’ve put the Redcat Marksman between a Traxxas TRX4 2021 Bronco 1/10 and an Axial SCX6 1/6 RC crawler. Note that while the Marksman is similar in length to the TRX4 Bronco, the track width is considerably greater on the Marksman. Also, the overall vehicle size is similar to 1/10 scale rigs, but width is the greatest difference – if a little less than obvious at first glance.

The vehicle doesn’t weigh more than many 1/10 scale crawlers and its close enough in ‘feel’ that you could reasonably trail this with others driving 1/10 scale rigs and fit right in. Certainly, some rock problems that might defeat the Redcat Marksman may be traversable by smaller rigs on account of that track width! More on performance in a bit. First, let’s look at what you get with this RTR model.

What’s In The Box?

There’s the vehicle itself, the radio transmitter, manual, scale accessories and ESC programming card. The Redcat Marksman is a Ready To Run (RTR) model, which means all you need to get it going is a battery for the rig and 4x AAs for the radio transmitter. The included Electronic Speed Control (ESC) is a HobbyWing WP-1080. This gives you the flexibility to run either 6-to-8 cell NiMH or 2S or 3S LiPO batteries.

Redcat also includes an accessories bag with some red plastic scale parts – though no obvious way to mount these to the body. There’s a spare wheel adapter for the back of the body – pictured below – but no spare wheel. We’ve used an old Axial Trepador from the original SCX10 on ours as its nice and lightweight and still looks convincing near the Marksman’s larger tires.

Radio System

The radio is the standard rebranded Flysky FS-GT2E AFHDS 2A transmitter, though the sticker calls it an RCR-2CE. This is the 2-channel unit Redcat Racing uses on their entire ground model range at present (2021 and 2022).

One nice thing to note is it runs Flysky’s AFHDS 2A protocol, so if you already have a FS-GT5 for other models, you can bind that to the Marksman here as well. The radio feels good in the hand and has a nice feel on the wheel. There is a sufficient, if sparce, amount of adjustment on the dials and it isn’t heavy. Overall, a good basic radio.

Holmes Hobbies For The Win!

The brushed motor in this machine is a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Sport. This is a 13-turn 5-pole (or 5-slot) 550-sized motor. Being a 5-pole means you get buttery smooth torque at the expense of the punch delivered by 3-pole motors. On a crawler, this is generally desirable.

For trail use, the motor is a perfect choice. There’s sufficient speed for trail driving and still enough low speed control to be satisfying on the rocks. However, we found that if you’re more biased toward crawling than trailing with this rig, a motor with slightly more turns may give a more rewarding experience.

After some testing, we’d recommend the 16-turn 550 Crawlmaster Sport and the same gearing. On 3S power, you’ll be all set with long runtimes, good low speed control and more than ample speed for trail driving. If you keep the 13-turn motor, going down one tooth size on the pinion and sticking on 2S power could also be a reasonable way to slow it down enough to feel a bit better on trickier rock problems. Of course, this is largely a case of personal preference and the stock configuration is fine.

HobbyWing Is Good!

We have a good, solid radio system and a workhorse motor. Redcat have opted for a high-quality ESC for the Marksman in the HobbyWing WP-1080. This is a popular ESC for good reason. It delivers smooth and reliable control and is very customisable. We like this ESC so much that we’ve written an entire how-to article for programming it, right here on rc-tnt.com!

You can use the stock settings for the most part, but we would recommend making one change in particular before running it. Enable freewheeling, which is option 15 on the programming card. Set that to 1 instead of 2 and you’ll effectively have an active drag brake. That means the WP-1080 will apply braking to the wheels even while you’re giving throttle input, helping to hold the vehicle on a hill at the speed you’re indicating, rather than allowing the rig to run away down the hill. A good thing!

Servo Avoido

The electronics package with the Redcat Marksman is excellent! That is, until you come to the servo. This is the same Hexfly 25KG 4.8v-6.8v unit that Redcat puts in most of their vehicles, even their diminutive 1/10 short course truck (which is really a 1/12 sized machine). The servo is slow and too weak even on the smaller Redcat Gen 8 V2, we’ve found. That they’ve also put it on the Marksman leaves one wondering if they’ve actually, y’know, tested the big rig with it. Because it isn’t good.

If you change just one thing on the Redcat Marksman, make the servo your first upgrade. The WP-1080 has an adjustable BEC and while it comes at 6V by default, you can change that to 7.4V with an upgraded servo and the Marksman will be worlds better. Seriously, budget for this if you plan to buy this rig.

Nearly any other crawling servo would be better. Here are a few options we use and recommend, from cheap to expensive:

JX Servo WP-5318HV ~16.5kg @ 7.4v, waterproof, cored, metal gear (lower rating but much better than the stock Hexfly unit).
JX Servo CLS-6336HV 35kg @ 7.4v, waterproof, coreless, metal gear.
JX Servo BLS-HV7132MG 32kg @ 7.4, splashproof, brushless, metal gear, alu case. (Fast and doesn’t fade under heavy load. Probably our favourite semi-budget crawler servo).
JX Servo CLS-HV7346MG 46kg @ 7.4v, waterproof, coreless, alu case, metal gear.
Holmes Hobbies SCX500v3 ~42kg @ 11.1v (direct run from 3S), waterproof, brushless, ultra tough – our favourite comp servo!

Body and Accessories

In a break from the usual, the Redcat Marksman sports a polycarbonate body that has been painted on both sides! The matte green finish on the outside looks very smart. They’ve finished the inside of the body in a rust-brown color. If you think about it, as the outside green paint gets scratched off on rocks and branches, the underside’s brown will gradually show through, giving the appearance of rust! Very clever little scale-ageing trick they’ve incorporated there!

There are light buckets for headlights only – taillights are stickers on this body. The plastics and faux interior on the Marksman are all of a high quality. Finish is solid and this body should last well. It’s very attractive and is enhanced further by the spare wheel holder included in the accessories package. We’ve mounted ours and the weight difference is minimal on a bigger crawler like this, so we found it very worthwhile for the improved look. You do have to poke a few holes in the pretty body to add this extra bit, so think about it before you do it – but we can at least show you how it looks. We like it!

Chassis & Running Gear

The steel C-channel chassis rails are solid. Reinforced with plastic cross-braces, the Marksman has a nice, rigid feel. We like that the vehicle doesn’t weigh a lot, despite its size, and as you can see from the photo below, there’s a lot of spare room on the chassis. Included wheel wells are a nice touch also – you get the aesthetic benefits when the body is on, and they also work to keep crud and debris out of the internals.

The axles are solid and well designed. They’re straight rather than portals, which is nice to see when portals seem to be everywhere. You’re going to be scraping the diff pumpkins over rocks, given the width of the vehicle. Larger tires are helpful, but clearance will be something to keep in mind when driving. For us, this adds to the appeal of scale fun. The skid plate is also intelligently implemented and has a nice, smooth finish. Drive shafts are tough plastic with steel universals. All up, the Marksman is a strong and lightweight platform. Simple and reliable.

Drive Feel

We said earlier we found this vehicle to feel a little faster than we’d like on the rocks. On the trail, the speed is good and it turns well at speed – impressive given its size and locked axles! The adjustability from the WP-1080 ESC means you can make the Marksman feel more like a cruisy trail rig or a precise rock crawler. It’s nice to have that control.

Another thing to note is torque twist. This is the phenomenon where the chassis twists under throttle in the opposite rotational direction to the drive shafts. It’s quite pronounced on this vehicle. On a smaller rig, torque twist can unsettle a crawler significantly. While it’s pretty pronounced on the Marksman, even to the point of lifting a wheel at times, the whole machine does not lose its track or become unsettled. It could be that the effect is weakened by its greater wheelbase and track width than on 1/10 crawlers. Something to be aware of, then, but not a deal-breaker.

The only let-down in the rig is that weak Hexfly servo. We almost never say this as we don’t like to waste things, but do budget in a better servo when you buy the Redcat Marksman. It’s the only shortcoming we’ve found after running several packs through it.

Our Verdict

This is a mid-range crawler as far as pricing goes. You have the choice of numerous 1/10 scale crawlers for similar money. If you like the idea of walking a trail and crawling obstacles as you find them, the Redcat Marksman could be for you. It’s not as capable as some 1/10 scale crawlers largely on account of that track width, but it’s a lovely, smooth machine. We haven’t driven it enough yet to give an idea of longer-term durability but will update this section in a few months to note this.

We love its look. Its simplicity under the body is alluring and it feels great on the rocks. What do you think? Feel free to leave comments and questions in our review video above and stay tuned for more videos in future on the Marksman’s performance, what upgrades we do (*cough* servo *cough*) and how we find its durability. After a few LiPO packs so far, we really like it.

Get Yours Here

AsiaTees sells the Redcat Marksman globally. Get it here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Remo Hobby 10275 – World’s Cheapest 1/10 Crawler?

by Craig | Jul 31, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Remo Hobby

The Old Adage

The Remo Hobby 10275 is interesting for its features and price. There’s a real promise of value in this most budget of 1/10 scale RC crawlers – IF it performs! There’s an old adage in the motoring world that goes, “fast, cheap and reliable: pick two”. Apply it to RC crawlers and it may be something like, “capable, cheap and reliable: pick two”. The Remo Hobby 10275 may be attempting to cover all three of these measures – and honestly, on paper, it looks like there may be something to it.

Trust, But Verify

As always, we test our 1/10 scale rock crawlers on our 6-problem course. This gives a decent, broad-level indication of performance relative to others. We’ll get to performance in a bit. First, let’s take a closer look at what you get when you buy a new Remo Hobby 10275.

What’s In the Box?

Aside from the car itself, there’s a radio transmitter, manual USB charger, 1500mAh Li-ion 7.4v battery and a handful of basic tools and spare body clips. The manual is pretty good, for a cheapie. It includes basic operations, troubleshooting steps, exploded parts diagrams and a list of spares and upgrades available for the vehicle. The package is well assembled, protects the vehicle nicely and is attractive. This is about as nice as one ever might expect of cheap RC vehicles – five stars on inclusions and packaging here.

Power Play

The radio transmitter requires just two AA batteries. You’ll need to supply these yourself, but that’s the only thing you’ll need to bring to this party. Remo has you covered for the rest. The Li-ion USB charger is slow but it’ll get the job done in a few hours. The Li-ion battery is made of two 18650 cells and is appropriate for this type of vehicle. As far as power and charging is concerned, this is a well-rounded package.

Assembly Required?

The wheels are not attached to the vehicle in the box. There are spacers on the axles to ensure the metal wheel hexes and drive pins remain in place, so you’ll have to remove them. Also note the tires are directional, so pay attention to that when putting the wheels on. The wheels are plastic, three-part bead-lock design with 5 self-tapping screws each. It’s easy to get the tires mixed up – evident in the photo below! – but otherwise, that’s it for assembly. Easy!

About the Vehicle

The Remo Hobby 10275 has steel chassis rails and fibre-infused plastic spacers throughout. There is a standard 4-link design with plastic links with nylon ball ends on each end of the vehicle. The servo is chassis-mounted, with no panhard, so steering is imprecise and worsened when suspension is articulated. With a 4-link setup, you’d want the servo mounted on the axle itself rather than on the chassis in order to preserve steering accuracy and full throw. We modified ours after initial testing – more on that below.

The driveshafts are plastic, telescoping universals with E-clips holding the unis together. They’ll be strong enough on this vehicle to never need replacing, we think. There are unshielded ball-bearings are the pinion end of the diffs and brass shims on the rest of the vehicle. Though this is seen often as a negative, for this cheap, lightweight rig, shims could well be a good thing. They don’t seize up as readily after exposure to mud and water – something to consider!

Remo Hobby 10275 Suspension

Suspension on all corners is plastic bodied, oil-filled shocks with metal caps and coil-over springs. The springs are too firm for the low weight of the rig, but the shocks do not leak and some articulation is still possible. We modified ours after the initial rock test – again, we’ll cover mods in a bit.

Body & Lights

The body is a single-piece, polycarbonate shell with through-holes for body posts and basic stickers applied on top. Our unit’s stickers were not applied with much care and things are poorly aligned in several spots. This is forgivable, given the low price of the model, we think. There are light buckets at each end for 2x 5mm white LEDs up front and 2x red LEDs in rear.

Remo Hobby 10275 Electronics

The company claims the Remo Hobby 10275 sports a 40A ESC (Electronic Speed Control). Under moderate throttle, our unit kept cutting out with the included 390 motor and stock gearing. We suspect the ESC is more likely to have a limit of somewhere around 20A, but this is unconfirmed. There is a way to address this – we’ll cover this in the Mods section, below.

The radio system is integrated with the ESC, along with a 5V 2A BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) that powers the steering servo. This 3-in-1 device has a single Futaba-style plug for the 3-wire servo and another micro-JST plug that outputs 3V to power LEDs. We installed a set of LEDs in ours and they powered perfectly from this second port, which is otherwise unused in the default configuration.

The radio transmitter is small in the hand but will suit kids very well. There’s a 50% throttle limiter button on the radio, as well as steering trim and steering dual-rate dials. It’s a basic unit but fine for this vehicle.

Steering

The Remo Hobby 10275 gets an entire section for steering, and that is unfortunately not for good reasons! The trim and dual-rate dial system on the radio creates an unnecessarily low limit to steering end-points. There is more throw available in the throttle than what the radio allows, in other words.

We tested this by maxing out the dual-rate dial first, then steering fully left and/or right, then holding the wheel and adjusting the trim further in that same direction. For both left and right we found there was more throw available in the servo. There’s no way to fix this without replacing the ESC with a discreet ESC and radio receiver, which would also mean a new radio transmitter too. Not ideal given this is possibly one of the world’s cheapest 1/10 RC crawlers – there will not be a budget for all that in most cases, we’d think. This is especially unfortunate given the CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo) and 4-link front setup already limit steering and so the car needs every bit of throw it can get from the servo!

Fit For Purpose?

This is a very cheap RC car. It’s certainly not a bad vehicle – just search the web for “cheapest RC car” or “best cheap RC car” and you’ll find many blog and store sites loudly proclaiming how good this or that cheap model is. In our experience, most of these “best cheap” models really aren’t so good.

The Remo Hobby 10275 gets really close to being a good choice for bargain-basement 1/10 RC crawling. The electronics and components are not terrible! There are imperfections and limitations by design and everything is made to a price. Much is forgivable at this price-point.

However – and this is the kicker – the Remo Hobby 10275 is not a rock crawler in its stock form. The ESC cutting out is an issue, as is the poor steering and low traction. There’s a poor drag brake and a throttle delay when changing directions. See all of this in our video series below:

Our Test Course

If you’re not familiar with how we test RC rock crawlers, we have a course that challenges any 4x4 RC crawler in many ways:

Approach and departure angle: these are challenged on Problems 2 and 3;
Side-hill ability: tested on Problems 1, 3 and 5;
Breakover (skid clearance): tested on Problems 4 and 6;
Suspension articulation and centre of gravity: challenged on problems 2 and 5; and lastly,
A punishing ascent on problem 6 tests all of balance, break-over, articulation, tire traction and approach and departure angles.

What Is It Good For?

All is not lost with this model! For all the challenges we found with rock crawling, keep in mind that we tested this vehicle on the same course that challenges vehicles costing fully ten times this amount! The car is durable in its stock form and materials used are fully appropriate for its intended purpose.

Yes, it’s a poor rock crawler. But it will make a fabulous backyard basher. It’ll handle puddles and creeks and it’ll deliver fun while doing so! The light weight and bouncy suspension combined with the tall-ish gearing and fast 390 brushed motor mean this thing is a hoot on bumpy ground.

Remo Hobby 10275 Mods

Keeping in mind this is a very cheap new RC crawler, any changes we’d make to this model need to be low-cost. We can’t just rip out all the electronics and replace them with high performance gear and do the same with wheels and tires. That would defeat the purpose entirely!

No, for the Remo Hobby 10275 we want only to change or upgrade things whilst keeping the price as close to $0 as possible. We wanted to lower its center of gravity, slow it down, improve its steering and address that ESC cut-out issue. We managed to achieve all of this for about $15!

Our Verdict

For the price, we think the Remo Hobby 10275 will deliver on both longevity and fun, particularly in the hands of kids. For this purpose, we recommend it. However, if you’re after a rock crawler first and foremost, look elsewhere.

Where To Get It

We have a 10% discount coupon available care of Banggood, who also graciously supplied us with the Remo Hobby 10275 for review and testing.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it’s all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! …You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

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What’s the Big Deal?

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Lighting Up the Trail

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Radio Freedom

Drag Brake on the Fly

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Back to the Big Thing

Now Think BIG

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