Total Rework for Redcat Ascent Fusion

Total Rework for Redcat Ascent Fusion

by | May 13, 2024

What This Is

This is my total rework for the Redcat Ascent Fusion.

When I tested the Redcat Ascent Fusion recently, it was capable, but also near its limit. I loved the premium finish and the aesthetic of the rig that Redcat has clearly set out to achieve (successfully, I might add).

However, the front end of the rig is very busy. Tuning is difficult. There’s bump steer under shock compression. The servo is limited by the janky angles in the CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo) setup. And there’s no rear tray or bed, which means in its stock config, the Ascent Fusion is not legal for WRCCA Performance Scale comps!

I wanted SOA (Servo On Axle) and I wanted a rear tray. To achieve that with this design, I needed to make FOUR changes:

  • SOA bracket and 4-link setup
  • Motor mount to accommodate this change without having to swap the motor for a stubby outrunner (this isn’t the Redcat Ascent Outrunner!)
  • Rear tray for WRCCA compliance
  • Cantilever shocks in order to fit the tray!
  • And I also threw in some extra value to address those wibbly-wobbly foams in the tires.

Finally, it’s all done! And it’s yours to download and print! Let’s go!

Reworked Ascent Fusion Rear-Left
Finished Chassis Top-Down
Finished Chassis Underneath Top-Down
Rear-Left View of Cantilevers

What’s It Cost?

Nothing! I’m giving this away. Print it yourself, build it, enjoy it.

All I ask in return is that you consider signing up to my email list (bottom of page). I won’t spam you. It’s basically a way for me to let you know when I release something cool that you’ll probably be interested in. If you like my YT channel and/or the files on these pages, it’ll probably be right up your alley.

Don’t worry, it’ll only be sporadic and I’ll safeguard your email address. I’m very pro privacy and will not abuse your trust. Thank you!

Tray and LHS Cantilever Left View
Servo Mount and 4-Link Underside
Mounted Cantilevers Underside
Tray and RHS Cantilever Underside

What You Get

You get twelve files in this download (as at v1.2):

  1. SOA v1.stl;
  2. Under-tray main spacer.stl;
  3. Spacers.stl;
  4. Tray.stl;
  5. Cam Inner.stl
  6. Cam Outer.stl
  7. 4-Link Motor Mount v1.stl
  8. Full Length Tray Bracket RHS 1.2.stl
  9. Full Length Tray Bracket LHS 1.2.stl
  10. 1.9 Verts for Ascent Fusion Fronts v2.stl
  11. 1.9 4.75 SoFines for Ascent Fusion Rears v3.stl
  12. READ ME.txt

 

Changelog:

1.1: added missing cam pieces.

1.2: modified Tray so rear-middle hole aligns with main center spacer.

TPU Inserts for Redcat Ascent Fusion
Printable Mounts and Spacers
Motor Mount Fit Top-Down
Finished Chassis Top-Down RHS

How To Use

Start with the READ ME.txt file in the zip file. That tells you about these files, how to print them, and what hardware you also need for the conversion.

Pay particular attention to the print guide for the servo mount (SOA v1.stl) as the orientation of this part on your print bed will affect its strength.

Alternatively, you can buy this part in stainless steel from Shapeways (here) and print everything else. (Update: there’s a better product already on the market, thanks to youtube commenter @Offroadflicks. Check out the Boco mount, it’s quite a bit cheaper at USD$34 (at that price, it’s the best option, I think!)

Also suggest you check out the video at the top of this page for some context. You’ll be able to see the rig moving, and to get an idea of what you’re aiming to build.

It should all ‘just work’ but let me know if you hit a snag. Happy tinkering!

Reworked Ascent Fusion Rear-Left
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Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Auto Tow Hitch for Cross RC EMO X3

Auto Tow Hitch for Cross RC EMO X3

by | Apr 14, 2024

What This Is

This is my Automated Towing Tailgate for the Cross RC EMO X3.

I thought towing needed to be a bit more hands-free. Hard to mess with your friends when you have to get down there and move the hook by hand.

This lets you reverse up to their truck, lower the tail gate, reverse a shade more, raise the gate, then drive off with their car. The perfect crime!

You’ll need a few screws and a rubber band. That’s really it!

What’s It Cost?

Nothing! I’m giving this away. Print it yourself, build it, enjoy it.

All I ask in return is that you consider signing up to my email list (bottom of page). I won’t spam you. It’s basically a way for me to let you know when I release something cool that you’ll probably be interested in. If you like my YT channel and/or the files on these pages, it’ll probably be right up your alley.

Don’t worry, it’ll only be sporadic and I’ll safeguard your email address. I’m very pro privacy and will not abuse your trust. Thank you!

What You Get

You get two files in this download:

  1. RC-TNT CRC EmoX3 Tailgate.stl;
  2. Read Me.txt

How To Use

Here’s how to print them:

I printed in PETG, though PLA+ and other load-bearing filaments should be fine. I’d suggest these settings:

– 0.4mm nozzle
– 0.24mm layer size (I used 0.3mm with my 0.6mm nozzle)
– 4 to 6 wall width (or wall or shell layers)
– 60% infill, cubic (25% minimum)
– Support on, manual (tree) painted just a little around the holes in the shackle brackets. You could use automatic supports, but your cleanup will be way harder. Manual, minimal painted areas are easier.

 You’re looking for strength. The Cross RC EMO X3 is a bigger truck, and if you’re going to be towing other large-ish models with it, this piece will be working hard! Go for more walls, more infill, more top/bottom layers, larger print resolution. Detail isn’t needed here. We want strength!

Cross RC EMO X3 tape the rubber band
poke band through
screw band in place

Assembly

  1. Print the thing.
  2. Bolt it on to the truck by inserting the tray over the D-shackles and passing a bolt through on each side. I used a pair of socket-head M4 8mm bolts for this.
  3. Also bolt the rubber band through the mid-point arms using socket-head M4 16mm bolt on each side. (Length doesn’t matter too much, nor the head type. Just be sure it goes through both sides of the arm).
  4. Tape the rubber band with fabric or electrical tape to protect and strengthen it for the next step.
  5. Poke the taped band down, into the towing hitch. Secure with a 12-16mm M3 screw.
  6. Bolt the hook through the central part with a socket-head M4 18-24mm bolt. Again, head type doesn’t really matter, nor the length – just be sure it goes through both parts of the plastic.

All done. Mischief time! I mean, work time! Yeah, work.

Enjoy!

Download
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Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Scale-1 Conversion for SCX10 III JLU

Scale-1 Conversion for SCX10 III JLU

by | Apr 14, 2024

2024 ECCF Scale-1 1st Place

What This Is

The files I developed to transform my Axial SCX10 III JLU into a WRCCA Scale-1 competition beast!

These parts aren’t perfect and you’ll need a little imagination (and scissors!) to meld the body with this tray. You’ll also want to drill (6mm) out the roof rack holes and use the shortest of the cups included in the file list underneath to get the length right.

I used flat M3 screws for the most part, 8mm and 12mm, as well as 8 or so 8mm M3 countersunk screws.

These parts aren’t perfect, but they’ll get you pretty close to the end result here.

What’s It Cost?

Nothing! I’m giving this away. Print it yourself, build it, enjoy it.

All I ask in return is that you consider signing up to my email list (bottom of page). I won’t spam you. It’s basically a way for me to let you know when I release something cool that you’ll probably be interested in. If you like my YT channel and/or the files on these pages, it’ll probably be right up your alley.

Don’t worry, it’ll only be sporadic and I’ll safeguard your email address. I’m very pro privacy and will not abuse your trust. Thank you!

original scx10 iii jlu front rear

What You Get

You get 15 files in this downloadable zip file:

  1. Bed.stl – the main tray
  2. LHS Connector.stl – goes left of tray
  3. LHS Door Clip.stl – goes outside front panel
  4. LHS Flare.stl – print in TPU
  5. LHS Front Panel.stl – goes at front
  6. LHS Rear Panel.stl – connects to LHS Connector
  7. Rear Connector.stl – bolts to rear of tray
  8. Rear Panel.stl – bolts to Rear Connector and Rear Panels
  9. RHS Connector.stl – goes right of tray
  10. RHS Door Clip.stl – goes outside front panel
  11. RHS Flare.stl – print in TPU
  12. RHS Front Panel.stl – goes at front
  13. RHS Rear Panel.stl – connects to RHS Connector
  14. Roof Rack Cups.stl – use to adjust roof rack under tray
  15. Read Me.txt
Preview of parts

How To Use

Here’s how to print them:

Quantity: 1 of each piece.

Material: print all* in PETG or PLA+ (any brand) – I’ve had success with eSUN and SUNLU. There’s no standard for PLA+, but it gives strength and flexibility to PLA and has been good.

*Except for LHS and RHS Flare – suggest these be done in TPU (any). They’ll still be okay in PLA+ but TPU will help ensure longevity on the rocks!

Resolution: I’ve been using 0.24, but any of 0.2, 0.24 or even 0.28 will work. Lower res is stronger, higher res is smoother. 0.24 is a good mid-point.

Infill: doesn’t really matter, but 15% should be fine.

Walls: 3, gives a little extra strength on those thinner parts.

Supports: none, except for the RHS and LHS Front Panels, where it needs just a smidge under those connecting parts.

Rafts: none

Orientation: on the flat side of all parts. They’re designed to just work. Align the flares on the inside part that connects to the side panels. Cups just stand up.

work in progress

Assembly

Screws. You’re gonna need em! I used flat M3 screws in 8mm and 12mm, and also countersunk M3 screws in 8mm. Worked nicely.

You’ll also need two M2.5 screws in 12 to 16mm for securing the bottom of the LHS and RHS Rear Panels to the Rear Panel. Do these up first before you screw in that last LHS/RHS Flare screw.

I used a little tape behind the LHS/RHS Rear Panel and LHS/RHS Front Panel pieces to help line them up with the lexan interior. I also poked a few holes in that interior so the screws would go though and help align it.

Lastly, the front hole of the LHS/RHS Front Panel goes under the rearmost screw of the front wheel wells on the body. That’ll also help align it.

Don’t over-tighten things. You’ll probably find PLA+ more tolerant of enthusiastic screw tightening than PETG, but take it easy and use hand tools rather than a drill. Once assembled, she’s a pretty rugged thing.

Enjoy!

Scale-1 Conversion for SCX10 III JLU
Download
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Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

Window Webbing for Tamiya Hornet

Window Webbing for Tamiya Hornet

by | Oct 3, 2023

Window Webbing for Tamiya Hornet

What This Is

Custom designed window webbing to fit your Tamiya Hornet!

You’ll need to secure it inside the body and though it’ll work with clear windows, I’ve designed these to fit with the windows removed entirely.

Use double-sided tape, hot glue or even a 3D print pen to draw these into place.

What’s It Cost?

Nothing! I’m giving this away. Print it yourself, build it, enjoy it.

All I ask in return is that you consider signing up to my email list (bottom of page). I won’t spam you. It’s basically a way for me to let you know when I release something cool that you’ll probably be interested in. If you like my YT channel and/or the files on these pages, it’ll probably be right up your alley.

Don’t worry, it’ll only be sporadic and I’ll safeguard your email address. I’m very pro privacy and will not abuse your trust. Thank you!

What You Get

You get two files in this download:

  1. LHS webbing piece;
  2. RHS webbing piece.
Window Webbing Pieces for Tamiya Hornet

How To Use

Here’s how to print them:

Quantity: 1 of each piece.

Material: PETG or PLA+ (any brand) – we’ve had success with eSUN and SUNLU. There’s no standard for PLA+, but it gives strength and flexibility to PLA and has been good.

Resolution: I’ve been using 0.24, but any of 0.2, 0.24 or even 0.28 will work. Lower res is stronger, higher res is smoother. 0.24 is a good mid-point.

Infill: doesn’t really matter, but 15% should be fine.

Walls: 4 or 6, gives a little extra strength on those thinner parts.

Supports: none

Rafts: none

Orientation: on the flat side of both parts. They’re designed to just work.

Assembly

I used a 3D printer pen to ‘draw’ mine into the cockpit. You could just use double-sided tape, ShoeGoo or hot glue. Whatever works.

Enjoy!

Window Webbing installed in Tamiya Hornet
Download
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Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!

RC-TNT HT Feather Chassis for UTB18 V2.36

RC-TNT HT Feather Chassis for UTB18 V2.36

by | Sep 6, 2023

2024 ECCF Mini 2nd Place

What This Is

This is the Sep 2023 version of the RC-TNT HT Feather, a performance-focused competition chassis for the Axial Capra UTB18 – now with side and roof panels from your UTB18!

It’s designed to optimize the rig for comp crawling, with a focus on clearing obstacles and lowering your center of gravity.

Crucially, it is a bolt-on upgrade. You only need to supply your own slightly longer screws. I’ve even got instructions for you!

 

What’s It Cost?

Nothing! Unless you get ShapeWays to print it for you, but in any case, I’m giving this away. Print it yourself, build it, enjoy it.

All I ask in return is that you consider signing up to my email list (bottom of page). I won’t spam you. It’s basically a way for me to let you know when I release something cool that you’ll probably be interested in. If you like my YT channel and/or the files on these pages, it’ll probably be right up your alley.

Don’t worry, it’ll only be sporadic and I’ll safeguard your email address. I’m very pro privacy and will not abuse your trust. Thank you!

RC-TNT HT Feather V2.36 Front-RHS

What You Get

You get four files in this download:

  1. LHS chassis piece;
  2. RHS chassis piece;
  3. spacers; and,
  4. PDF assembly manual.

Current version: 2.36 (updated version with side panels)

IMPORTANT UPDATE APRIL 2024: the chassis is not WRCCA-compliant as it’s a little too short!! I’ll design a new Mini chassis to address this, but in the meantime, I have an 11.4g fix, plus 4x 8mm flat screws. Download this and affix with two screws on each side on the rear of the chassis, inside the shocks. It’ll give you the extra 34.5mm needed to get this thing into spec! My sincere thanks to Youtube commenter rcarty419 for catching this and my humble apologies to all affected by this careless oversight. I hope you continue to find this model useful, despite this little setback. THANK YOU!

 

No 3D Printer? No Problem!

See our ShapeWays shop: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rc-tnt

(I’ve kept my mark-up under $10 total for a full chassis kit purchase, if you’re wondering! It’s still not cheap. Got a 3D printer at your local library, maker space, men’s shed, high school or technical college? Take the STL files with you and get to it!)

RC-TNT HT Feather V2.36 Sliced

Pictured above: RC-TNT HT Feather V2.36, sliced on Bambu Studio in 0.2 res with 6 walls and 20% infill. This is stronger at higher detail. As above, 0.24 res/line width, 4 walls and 15% infill is also fine. I’m also using Tree support at 5 degrees, in order to help print that rear window arch cleanly in the Silk PLA+ filament I’m testing (Silk can be difficult to work with, so I’m experimenting).

How To Use

Here’s how to print them:

Quantity: 1 of each piece. The spacers are required for installation and the correct number and sizes are supplied in the single STL file.

Material: PETG or PLA+ (any brand) – we’ve had success with eSUN and SUNLU. There’s no standard for PLA+, but it gives strength and flexibility to PLA and has been good.

Resolution: I’ve been using 0.24, but any of 0.2, 0.24 or even 0.28 will work. Lower res is stronger, higher res is smoother. 0.24 is a good mid-point.

Infill: doesn’t really matter, but 15% should be fine.

Walls: 4 or 6, gives a little extra strength on those thinner parts.

Supports: none should be fine, but you could use Tree(Auto) or Default(Auto) and 5 degrees as the angle. That will support the middle of the rear-window arch, should your printer require the help. You don’t need to support anything else, and even this is optional on modern printers. Your mileage may vary.

Rafts: none

Orientation: on the flat side of both chassis parts. They’re designed to just work.

Assembly

See the included Build Guide for assembly instructions. You’ll need 8x M3 8mm and 8x M3 18mm low-profile head screws – flat or button will work. Screws available here.

Enjoy!

RC-TNT HT Feather V2.36 Rear-LHS
Download
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Terms of Use

These files are provided for your personal use and enjoyment only. Please don’t print and sell them, nor the stl files (if you see them for sale in the wild, do me a solid and let me know!)

Please also don’t upload these to any of the online 3D printable sites. I’ve chosen not to do that and would appreciate you respecting that choice, as I’ve freely shared the files with you to print here on RC-TNT.com.

Thank you and please enjoy!