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Rlaarlo JK07 Pro: the Search is Over!

by Craig | Mar 15, 2025 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Rlaarlo

Dessert First: My Conclusion

A cheeky spoiler first: the new Rlaarlo JK07 Pro has quickly become one of my all-time favourite RC vehicles.

Now, I want you to appreciate what a momentous feat this is. I’ve been into RC since the 1980s and currently have a shipping container to hold my models. There’s a total of 7.5m (26ft.) of shelving, with 6 levels, to store my 1/10 and larger models, side-by-side. I have many, many RC cars as part of my RC-TNT ‘library’ of models for content creation.

Okay, so once more, the Rlaarlo JK07 Pro is one of my all-time favourite RC vehicles. Now you may see what a big deal this is!

The Search for Scale

This is not a review of the Rlaarlo JK07 Pro. (I do have a video for that, if you’re interested – it’s at the end of this article). But no, today, I am inspired to tell you a bit of a story. It’s still ultimately about the new 1/7 scale beauty from the pointy green R, but it’s quite personal and very much a recalling of times past and dreams unfulfilled – until now. But I get ahead of myself.

I have Rlaarlo to thank for inspiring me to share this with you. I also must thank them for sending me one of their rare ‘Pro’ versions of their epic new trail truck. So, grab a coffee, find a comfy seat, and please enjoy my tale of…

The Search for True Scale!

Four Decades Ago…

I had a blessed childhood. I’m well aware of that. My parents were soil scientists and throughout the 1980s and 90s, they travelled in their Toyota Landcruiser 60 series (and later, 80 series) crisscrossing the many trails of much of the NSW public forested land. They dug small holes, took soil samples, and assembled reports about the state of the land for the NSW Forestry Commission. Some of those reports are still in use and I heard recently they are still today considered the gold standard for this sort of work. Way to go, mum and dad!

I was the eldest of three kids. I’ve always been a tinkerer and have always, always loved things that go. My first word was ‘car’, followed by ‘mum’. That should tell you something! Well, we kids sometimes rode along with our folks on some of their shorter forestry trips. We stayed up the road with our grandparents for the other, longer ones – still had to go to school, after all! But those trips were pretty great.

Grounded

My Dad had installed a small, 12V TV on the center console of the Landcruiser and a 12V VCR underneath it (it played analogue video tapes on the TV, for those of you born this century). We’d bring snacks and some toys and would play near the car, make things from sticks, and generally just be kids between the many stops mum and dad would make.

One thing I always took along with me was a small RC car. But it was a two-wheel drive thing that ran on 4x AA batteries and with the electronics of the late 80s, it wasn’t particularly capable nor efficient on power. But the batteries were rechargeable, and I had two sets, so I often was able to keep the thing running for about half the stops we made.

The Dream

My little RC car had basic suspension, no diff (just an axle with a plastic gear on it, driven by the motor) and weak, 3-position steering. It could handle a little water – it was just a basic AM radio system and there wasn’t much to its electronics – but it was quite limited. Still, I had a blast with that thing. Many fond memories were made, driving up little gravel gullies, across obstacles, down sandy animal trails, and just generally around the place. I played in my own little imaginary world and it was great!

Back then, I didn’t know it, but what I longed for was a more scale experience. I had the imagination, but was limited by electronics of the day. Plastics manufacturing was still new-ish, basic radio technology was sketchy and there was a very small (but rapidly growing) toy and hobby market for RC cars. Despite this, the scene was set.

The Mid 90s

We moved to Coffs Harbour, NSW in December 1988. It was notable because it started raining in early December and didn’t stop raining until mid-late January 1989. Back then, Coffs had a population of around 55,000 people (the greater Coffs area is pushing 180k people now).

There was a Tandy Electronics in town, and I have a vivid memory of my first trip in there with my dad. He needed a new CB radio. I was distracted by their hobby and toys section – there were so many different cars there! And trucks! They stocked a lot of Tamiya and I had no idea about any of it – but I knew right then that I wanted IN!

It Began With Tamiya

It was 1993 and I bought my first hobby-grade car. I hadn’t realized that crawlers were even a thing – and much of the time, they weren’t anyway, as people were cutting and modifying various monster trucks and scale runners like the Clod Hopper and Bruiser, turning them into slow rock machines. So, I started my time in the hobby with a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer.

I had a great time with it, burned through many a NiCAD pack and sets of tires, both on- and off-road sets, until I sold that to my cousin later in the 90s. My brother had a monster truck with two speeds for a time, and that was cool. His first foray onto rocks ended up blowing its plastic transmission. (Oh, how times have changed!)

My First Crawler

If you know me from RC-TNT on YouTube, you may be surprised to learn that it wasn’t until 2011 that I experienced my first real rock crawler. It was a Losi MRC (or Mini Rock Crawler) and I had SUCH a great time with that thing! When I retired it, the car had a 1/10 80 Series Landcrusier body on it with a home-made winch, metal sliders, 1.9” wheels and 4.3” tires. I drove the wheels off that thing – several times, in fact!

In the years following, I dipped into the 1/24 scene (starting with the Losi Trail Trekker in 2013) and into 1/10 and bigger (starting with an old, well-used SCX10 Deadbolt I picked up second hand). A new Vaterra Ascender soon followed, and that puts us in about 2015.

Getting Into Scale

By now, the rot had truly set in. There was no turning back. I was busily building scale obstacle courses at home and meeting people near and far to trail drive with during weekends and even after work, into the night. I could not get enough of RC scale driving and models!

Of course, the problem with meeting other people to drive with is that you see what they’re up to in the hobby. You start to get more and more ideas about what you want to do with your rig/s. And once your mind starts spinning away on these things, there’s only one cure…

More and Bigger Crawlers, Please!

You can no-doubt see where things are heading at this point. By 2017 I had probably 50 lipo batteries and several balance chargers, and various 1/24, 1/18, 1/10 and 1/8 scale machines, some of which I’d built myself and some that were kit builds, and others that were used RTR machines from local buy/sell groups in the hobby.

I have a photo of my Trail Trekker in LC80 guise using its winch up the side of a rock from around 2013. It’s my first photo of a scale crawler showing how I was really trying to capture that feel of a real car. The more realistic, the better. I thought that meant better bodies, better tires and more accessories. To some extent, that was correct. But I was missing something.

Running Gear Matters

Sometime in 2017, Traxxas announced a bold new RC crawler with a previously unheard-of feature: remote locking differentials. In a 1/10 scale crawler. I came across a leaked photo of a shiny grey Defender on oversized tires and looking incredible. My jaw just about hit the floor, along with the rest of me, as I fell off my chair when I saw it! I think I called a couple of friends right then to tell them about it. Guys! Remote lockers! On a 1/10!?

When it was released, I bought one of the first Traxxas TRX4 models available in Australia. Man, I drove that thing for YEARS and its running gear was amazing. But over time, inevitably, I wanted more! More scale! More running gear! And more realism!

Just Like My ‘Real’ Car

A few years later, Boom Racing released the BRX01 (article here) and along with it, a transfer case option that included selectable 4WD/RWD. The car had full-time locked axles, but with overdrive gears in the transfer case, that was a sublime option for an already brilliant scale rig. (You can read about that one here, it’s still one of my favourite trail rigs today).

My full-size 80 series Landcruiser was RWD most of the time, with an open diff. Lock the hubs and you’d have 4WD high and low range. And then, if you wanted, you could install lockers so you could lock the front or the rear diffs, too. But no RC model ever had that level of detail. For some years now, I’ve been patiently waiting for such a thing to become a reality. Here’s where it gets good. Better than good!

Rlaarlo To The Rescue!

This brings us to 2025 and Rlaarlo has, unexpectedly, incredibly, delightfully, come through for we scale afficionados. My dream of the ultimate scale, trail crawler may have actually, finally, been fulfilled! It’s time to talk about the new Rlaarlo JK07 Pro – I have one of just five in the world at time of writing – and I’m SO excited to tell you about it!

There’s a video review and drive demo I’ve made for this car that you can find at the end of the article. It’s very worth watching. But here, I’m going to take you over some of the scale detail and goodies that I couldn’t include in the video, else I’d still be filming it right now. It’s a bit of a list!

Rlaarlo JK07 Pro Features

Ok, ready for this?

1/7 scale long wheelbase;
full working light kit (with working LEDs on the front fenders and bendy mirrors!!);
selectable RWD/4WD/FWD;
high and low speed;
selectable remote locking diffs;
working windscreen wipers (3 speed settings!);
huge brushless motor and servo;
a longer wheelbase AND body than the Axial SCX6 (yes, really!);
a GPS-measured top speed on 4S (yes, 4S!) of 29kph (or 18mph);
working side awning;
working rooftop camper with collapsible ladder;
sand ladders and scale shovel;
a full interior including a steering wheel that turns with the wheels; and,
everything’s waterproof!

The whole thing weighs around 8.4kg (or 18.5lb), it looks fabulous, and the body comes off and goes on without body clips or other tools. It’s hinged and has gorgeous cable routing, and the entire machine is controlled by a DumboRC (Rlaarlo-branded) 10-ch radio transmitter.

I honestly and truly think the Rlaarlo JK07 Pro might be the most complete package of ANY RTR I’ve ever had. Really. If you’ve seen my toy shop of a studio, you’ll know that means of most cars on the market today.

What I Love

The previous section pretty much tells the story there. This is a durable car with very well conceived execution. All the plastics are nice and bendy for good durability. Components are thoughtfully placed. The car runs well and has a wonderfully scale body roll to it. Driving in just RWD and unlocked is a hoot! And I LOVE being able to slowly increase the car’s ability to match increasingly challenging terrain: RWD open diff, 4WD open diff, 4WD front/rear locked. So fun.

The battery tray is huge and fits a 7A 4S and a 10A 3S lipo – both are ideal for a car of this size. (Adapters here, if you buy either of these). Rlaarlo sells suitable batteries and many spare and upgrade parts for the JK07 as well.

The body is beautifully appointed and there’s a complete interior. There are many stickers included with the thing so you can customize it a bit, and the tires and foams are very good. I wouldn’t add more brass to it, I think the car is balanced just nicely out of the box. It’s quiet, power-efficient and just plan fun to drive.

Things Needing Improvement

There aren’t many things on this list, but a few items are in need of attention if you’re going to use this a lot. Firstly, the two rear tow hooks are plastic. They snap very easily if you tip the car on its bottom for cleaning or inspection. I wish these were either metal, hinged, or both. (My Rlaarlo contact has confirmed they’re looking to iterate on this in future). Also, the rear springs are too soft, even with full preload applied. I’d prefer slightly thicker diameter rear springs so the car can ride a bit more stably, especially on corners and steep ascents.

The steering wheel needs a bearing in the shaft so it doesn’t grind around when its servo tries to move it. And lastly, if you’re crawling with it beyond anything mild, the large wheels and mass of the vehicle overwhelm the 45kg brushless servo. I’m going to fit a 70kg brushless unit to mine. Lastly, the manual is a bit vague on features – more on that in a moment.

Wipers & Steering Wheel

These seemingly unrelated things had one factor in common: neither worked properly for me, but for different reasons.

Steering Wheel: the steering wheel was installed too tightly, so instead of rotating with its micro servo, it kinda ground left and right. Loosening the retention screw behind it fixed this. Simply a factory installation issue, no biggie.

Wipers: The wipers have a button on the radio (CH10) but the manual isn’t clear on how this works. A single press makes them wipe once. Holding it down for a few seconds turns them on. Pressing CH10 3x rapidly adjusts the wiping speed. A single press will turn them off.

My Overall Impression

This is not just Rlaarlo’s best car to date. The Rlaarlo JK07 Pro is one of the best RC trail rigs on the market, period. I’m completely serious. For me, at least, the complexity afforded by the various servos and design are such that I can have a true scale adventure with this thing. I can get stuck, get recovered, and even winch myself out if I wanted to install a winch on one of the two spare radio channels (both of which conveniently have a dial). It’s such a great car.

The Rlaarlo JK07 Pro won’t be for everyone. But for those among us who are still kids at heart, dreaming of scale adventure, this flagship model from Rlaarlo may be just the model you’ve been waiting for. I am so, so pleased with it. Oh yes.

Where To Buy

Rlaarlo sells direct from their website.

Also consider the JK07’s predecessor, the shorter-wheelbase Rlaarlo MK07.

See It in Action

I’ve got a detailed video of my experience with the Rlaarlo JK07 Pro below.

Also learn about other Rlaarlo vehicles I’ve examined here: https://rc-tnt.com/rlaarlo/

See my Rlaarlo videos here, on YouTube.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

Craig has been into radio control since the 90s and into RC crawling since about 2010, when a Losi MRC started the obsession! Now it's all rocks this and crawl that and upgrade all the things! ...You know how it is, right? Welcome home 🙂

A note on affiliate links: we were provided with this car by the manufacturer for review purposes. The Rlaarlo and other seller links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

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FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer 2.0

by Craig | Dec 4, 2024 | FMS, RC Crawlers, RC Reviews

Prefer to Listen?

The FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer is back, but with the same name as a few years ago. What’s going on? If you’d prefer to hear about it than read this interview, here is an AI-generated ‘deep dive’ podcast-style discussion between two AI hosts, courtesy of Google’s NotebookLM. It covers the below interview, which consists entirely of my own, very much NOT AI words and thoughts.

If you prefer to listen than read, it does justice to the interview below. Enjoy!

What’s New?

RC-TNT: Let’s talk about the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer. You’ve got the new version here to look at, sent from Banggood for review (buy here). How does that work?

Craig: That’s right, BG have sent the car to me for review purposes. I didn’t pay for it. But as always, my stipulations are simple but not-negotiable: I don’t accept payment for the review, I don’t provide my reviews to the manufacturer or retailer before releasing them to the public, and I show everything I find during my review, the good and the bad. Honesty first. If they’re not able to agree with my simple terms, I don’t accept the car for review. Pretty simple!

Okay, onto the cars. I bought the original with my own money and have received the newer version for review, that’s correct. This week, I’ve had both the old and the new models out at the same time and compared them closely. There are some differences between them that are worth talking about!

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Box Comparo

Body Changes

RC-TNT: Starting with the body, could you describe the visual differences between the previous version and the new truck?

Craig: The new version has undergone some noticeable updates. First, the tires (and the wheels) are now considerably larger, which not only changes the look but also improves performance significantly. The larger tires give it a more rugged, aggressive stance, and they help with ground clearance when crawling over obstacles.

The front wheel wells are gone now, which might seem like a small change, but it actually makes a big difference when the wheels articulate. You won’t have as much rubbing or interference, though the downside is the undercarriage is missing a little of the solid, scale feel the original version had. I don’t think it’s a huge loss though.

The metallic cherry red paint on this version is another standout—it has a sparkly, cherry-colored finish compared to the previous version, which was a bit more muted. Combined with the darker, more tinted windows, it really gives the model a more premium look. These changes to the body make the new version feel both more functional and visually appealing.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Side

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Full Nose to Nose

Mmm, Donuts

RC-TNT: That’s interesting! You’ve mentioned tires and wheel wells. So, let’s move on to the running gear. How do the changes in the wheel and tire size impact the new model’s performance compared to the previous version?

Craig: The larger tires are a game-changer for performance. They provide better grip on a variety of surfaces, from loose dirt to rocks. You’ll notice improved ground clearance, which allows the vehicle to handle bigger obstacles with ease. On the previous version, the smaller tires sometimes struggled with traction, especially on uneven and steep terrain or peaky obstacles, but the new ones make the vehicle much more capable.

The larger tires also contribute to better stability overall, because of the increased surface area making contact with the ground. It’s a small change that has a big impact on how the vehicle performs in real-world crawling scenarios. The bigger the tire, the smaller the relative size of the obstacles, basically.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Undersides

Gearing Up

RC-TNT: It sounds like those larger tires make a real difference! Speaking of gearing, could you elaborate on the new two-speed transmission in the updated model? How does it enhance the vehicle’s versatility compared to the previous version?

Craig: The two-speed transmission is one of my favorite upgrades in this model. It really enhances versatility. In low gear, you get that slow, controlled crawling performance with high torque, which is perfect for tackling technical trails or rocky climbs. High gear, on the other hand, allows for faster movement on flatter terrain, like when you’re driving between obstacles or on a trail run.

The ability to switch between these two modes on the fly is a massive improvement. It means you don’t have to compromise—you can have precision and torque when you need it and then switch to speed and battery efficiency when the terrain allows. The previous version’s single-speed setup just couldn’t offer that level of adaptability without a brushless upgrade, so this is a big step forward. The brushed system is now far more versatile.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Radio Comparo

Steering Committee

RC-TNT: That sounds like a great upgrade for a better trail and crawling experience! Now, let’s talk about the steering. How does the shift from a chassis-mounted servo to an on-axle servo affect the steering performance of the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: Switching to an on-axle servo is a fantastic improvement for performance, though there are drawbacks. With a chassis-mounted servo (CMS), you often deal with linkage flex and a certain amount of slack in the steering. This can result in less precise handling, especially when the suspension is under load.

The servo-on-axle (SOA) setup eliminates most of these issues because it’s directly connected to the steering assembly. This means the steering response is more accurate to full throw in both directions. You’ll notice this especially when one side of the axle is much lower or higher than the other, when crawling. Steering remains consistent, whereas the old CMS system can vary. Despite the drawback of looking less scale, you’re getting consistent performance regardless of how much the vehicle is articulating. Overall, it makes the driving experience feel a lot more dialed-in.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V2 & V1 Steering

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 Steering

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer V1 & V2 Undercarriage

Shocking Updates

RC-TNT: It’s fascinating how those changes impact performance! Tell us more about the suspension setup. How does the updated suspension on the new model differ from the previous version, and what benefits does it bring to the FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: The suspension on the new version is noticeably improved. First, the new shocks are oil-filled with aluminum bodies, including adjustable pre-load with thumb screw rings! The old ones were plastic and friction only, so this is already a big step up.

So yes, the shocks feel more refined, with better damping that allows for smoother articulation. This is crucial for crawling because it helps the vehicle maintain stability while navigating big changes to tire position on bigger obstacles.

The previous version was decent for what it was, but this one feels more balanced and capable. It’s also easier to tune the suspension to your liking, whether you want it softer for more articulation or firmer for better stability on inclines. This flexibility makes it more adaptable to different terrains and driving styles. Plus, the improved suspension works in harmony with the larger tires and the on-axle servo, creating a more cohesive and capable crawling platform.

Lying Down on the Job

RC-TNT: You mentioned there’s a new angle for the shocks earlier, and a change in the springs as well. What’s going on there?

Craig: That’s right, yes. On the first version of the model, the rear shocks were laid down at quite a significant angle, in order to fit them to the chassis rails, underneath the bed. The new model stands those shocks up some more, and so you see the top of the shock hoops in the bed. They’ve kind of got cutouts, which is not ideal aesthetically, but it greatly improves your options for suspension tuning.

The way that they pulled it off on the old one with the laid down shocks was that they just used really stiff springs, because the more you lay down the rear shocks, the less authority they’ll have over the suspension’s movement. So, they had to go with really quite thick diameter springs in the rear. It worked but it made the truck quite bouncy.

With the more stood up rears, the springs are nice and thin and the preload is adjustable. It’s tunable and it can articulate more easily and consistently throughout the entire range of motion. It’s really a delightful update, and I’m so happy they did that.

Escaping Short Circuits

(See what I did there? Har har.)

RC-TNT: That sounds like a significant improvement for both performance and tunability! Now, let’s talk about the electronics. How does the new waterproof control module in a plastic box compare to the previous model’s setup, and what benefits does it offer for the FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: Functionally, they’re the same, but aesthetically, when you lift the hood, it is actually a lot neater. The old model had the battery sitting back behind this board, so you just saw the naked electronic board, which is visually quite similar to a lot of the cheap cars that are out there.

It did still have conformal coating on the board, so it was water-resistant, like the new unit. However, being contained in a little plastic box with a separate little push-button switch, the new one looks much nicer, and your wires and components are prevented from accidental physical damage.

The other advantage of having the little plastic box, which is physically smaller than the old PCB, is that it’s backed further towards the firewall, towards the cab, that is. And now the battery tray is right up front, whereas the old one had the battery behind it. And that’s just as well, because the new battery is more than double the size of the old one. They’re both 2S batteries, that’s 7.4 volt LiPo batteries, but the old one was 380 milliamp-hour, the new one is 900 milliamp-hour. The charger is twice the output too, so you can now enjoy double the runtime, combined with your two-speed giving you so much more flexibility, while your charging time will be roughly the same as the old one.

It’s just an all-round better package from the electronics perspective. The other thing I’ll note on electronics is that the lighting is now a bit more modular. You’ve got plugs in the rear, as opposed to a hard-line wire that goes from the rear lights all the way to the front. Now they can be disconnected and split for upgrading, if you want to get a little bit more fancy with the lights. So overall, it’s a much more elegant solution with the lighting than it used to be on the old model.

Radio Star

RC-TNT: Those are some fantastic updates, making the new model both more efficient and user-friendly. Finally, let’s wrap up with the radio system. How does the upgraded radio with an extra channel enhance the driving experience of the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer?

Craig: The very practical approach they’ve taken to having a more power-efficient radio, for a start, is very good. It only takes two AA batteries. The old one took three AAA batteries, which was an inconvenient number, as far as getting batteries, or charging them. Also, AAA batteries have less capacity than AA batteries, and the higher your voltage in the system (4.5v vs 3v), the faster that voltage is going to drop.

So, combined with having fewer and bigger batteries, your runtime in the newer remote is now vastly greater than in the old one. The radio is also physically smaller, but to my large adult hands, it’s more comfortable to use. The wheel feels nicer, the trigger feels nicer, the balance of the radio is nicer.

Regarding the extra controls, the thumb press for the gear change is very nice. The radio has all the normal accoutrements for throttle and steering tuning and adjustment. Overall, it’s a real improvement.

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer Inclusions Comparo

FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer FTW

RC-TNT: It’s impressive how many thoughtful improvements they’ve made! From the larger tires to the upgraded radio, it sounds like the new FMS FCX18 Chevrolet K10 Blazer offers a much more refined and capable experience. Thanks for walking us through these differences, Craig! Is there anything else you’d like to add about this model?

Craig: Not much more, except to say that the overall package is very impressive. The combination of aesthetic upgrades, like the paint and tinted windows, and functional improvements, like the two-speed transmission and suspension, really sets this model apart from its predecessor. It’s clear that a lot of thought went into making it not just look better, but perform better too. I think anyone who picks this up will be thrilled with what it offers.

Thanks to Banggood for supplying this model for review. Help support RC-TNT by using this link to buy one for yourself, if you like the model! Thanks 🙂

RC-TNT: That’s true, added performance and functions in a pretty package makes for a compelling new model. Thanks for sharing your insights! We look forward to seeing the full review on the channel. Talk to you next time on RC-TNT!

A note on affiliate links: we were provided with this car by the manufacturer for review purposes. The Amazon and AsiaTees links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

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RGT Intruder: An Important Release!

by Craig | May 22, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

Heard of RGT?

Before we get to the RGT Intruder EX86020 (available here), I think some context would be helpful. Previously a lesser-known manufacturer, Chinese company RGT have been making quite a splash with their 1/10 trail rig releases over 2022 and 2023.

For instance, you may have already seen our recent comparison article, “Which RGT is best for you?”. In this one, I compared three of their best and biggest recent releases: Rescuer, Challenger and Pro Runner. I’ve also looked at the Tracer, Pioneer, and the 136100 range either here or on the channel – and all have their merits.

What’s the Big Deal?

So, what’s the fuss about the RGT Intruder? Isn’t it just another car? Well, no: for a start, it’s their first big release for 2024. Secondly, it looks the same as the RGT Rescuer EX86190, which will inevitably lead to comparisons with the older, larger model. We’ll see below that this apparent similarity is only cosmetic in nature – but more on that in a moment.

I see it as an important next step after their successful, more ‘standard’ models. Their previous SWB (Short Wheel Base) models have been underwhelming, or, if finished beautifully as with the 136100v3, weaker than it should have been. (Both my 136100v2 and v3 have a broken front axle and both were the CVD joints not standing up to crawling). But now, folks are starting to pay attention.

The Big Reason

RGT has proven they can make great vehicles. They’ve shown how their own designs are working – obvious IP infringement aside with the bodies and often the tire treads. And they’ve shown that they can make a decently durable model that performs well AND has parts and upgrade availability. That’s actually quite a big deal.

As these models draw new potential customers to consider the brand, their newest model releases matter all the more. From where I’m watching, the RGT Intruder EX86020 is possibly their most important release. This is their first high-level scale model RC crawler that doesn’t have the extra bells and whistles that many folks disparage. It has a gorgeous body. The price suggests quality. The running gear is solid (U-joints in those front axles, for example). And it’s all 1/10 scale kit.

In short, this model needs to be good. Better than good. Newcomers to RGT are watching this one!

What’s It Like?

The first thing that jumped out to me was that gorgeous body. I made a post on my YT community page that said something like, “Gosh, this car just looks amazing from any angle” – and it really does!

There are a bunch of extras they throw in so you can add more lights, mount a larger battery tray, add some scale extras and have a play with suspension mount points and so on. There’s a lot of good here, though the main ‘feature’ of this model is its appearance. I mean, just look at it!

Body Issues

There’s only one issue with the body: it is not licensed. This has been the case for all of their crawlers, to my knowledge. Toyota may not be pleased, and I don’t condone the practice. Unlicenced bodies are a problem for the hobby, as are cloned parts. I really need to do a blog post on just this topic, as there are a few things to unpack here. But the car is pretty and the colour choices are all quite good.

This model comes with some extra plastics for both the cabin and the exterior of the body, like a rear-view mirror, extra spotlight cases, wipers, and so on. You need to fit these yourself. The folding side-mirrors come installed though, as do the door handles and the rear pillar air vents. If you do nothing with the extras after you unbox it, the car is still very complete. I also appreciate the captured body pins – you won’t lose these during a battery change on the trail!

RGT Intruder Interior

Well, it has one. My original RGT Rescuer did not have one (see? Even I’m comparing this car to the Rescuer! It’s inevitable!), though now the EX86190 does ship with an interior. I bought mine separately. The interior in the Intruder here is the same as the one I bought. This is a good thing, as it helps keep RGT’s costs down. It’s attractive, functional, and being polycarbonate, about as light as it could be. Good!

There are no lights in the cabin, but there are lights on all corners, controlled by a central module that’s attached to the underside of the body’s mold piece. It connects to the LED port on the all-in-one Receiver/ESC/Light Controller on the chassis. I’ll get to that further down.

Wheels and Tires

There’s the promise of performance, with vented tires (including foams), and they’re about as large as could reasonably fit under this scale of body. They’d be 43” tires in real life – and on this kind of vehicle, even something like 35” tires are BIG. So, RGT have pushed the performance there as far as they dare. It’s a compromise, scale vs capability, and I think it was the right move to max the diameter out.

They’re glued 4.31″ tires on plastic 1.9″ wheels. However, I do think the tire carcass is too stiff for the weight of this car. The foams feel about right, but the rubber in the tires is either too thick or too rigid, and to my feel, they don’t bend enough around rocks. Traction is lost that the car really needs. We’ll get to this shortly.

Chassis and Links

This is a talking point: the rails are 3mm CNC-milled aluminum with a stunning finish. They are really pretty! And the chassis is very stiff, too, thanks to the generous plastic-fiber cross bracing from nose to tail. The shock hoops are part of the rails and even the panhard mount is finished in the same lovely material. Full marks for that.

Links and geometry are also well designed. There’s full movement for both axles, no binding, and plenty of room for everything to move as it needs to. And the car isn’t heavy. These are all great things, too. Honestly, we’re off to a very solid start at this point.

Oh, those links are 6mm stainless steel with stainless steel ball ends, too. It’s so premium. Not everyone will appreciate how nice this is, but as an RC guy with ALL the cars and a lot of experience at this point, I want to emphasize just how high the quality is on this vehicle. RGT have not cut corners on chassis and links.

Suspension

The coil-over shocks are also very nice. Aluminum body, thumb-screw adjustable pre-load, appropriately plush springs and intelligently mounted. I like these.

However, my unit arrived with empty shocks. Not everyone will notice this, and not everyone will care, but you want some oil in your shocks. It limits how bouncy they are, which limits how much the wheel reacts to changes in terrain at high or low speed. I’d recommend 30 wt. oil, give or take. Worth doing.

The shocks move well and the car is in good shape with this setup. Just don’t forget the oil like my car’s assembler did!

Straight Axles

No portals here. But the best thing about these straight axles is how tough they are. I love seeing steel universal joints on front steering axles in a crawler. It’s really the only way to go for performance and strength. Yes, they’re not as smooth as CVDs and similar, but the extra steering angle the unis afford you make the trade-off well worth it.

The housings themselves aren’t particularly scale, but the size is small and they are attractive. It’s a high-pinion position like Axial’s AR45 axles and the gears are helical cut (or spiral? Can’t quite tell from the photos). Either way, they’ll be strong, and with the default tooth count of 30/8, overdriving/underdriving using the diff gears for better crawling and steering should be a straightforward undertaking. (I’m confident these will fit, though I haven’t tested them yet!)

Radio & AIO Rx/ESC/Lights

After a couple of vehicles with the new FlySky MGXX-BS radio systems, this is my first one with the middle-spec option, the MG6-BS. It’s a 6-channel radio (4x AAs) and an AIO (All-In-One) receiver, 60A ESC and light controller with discrete light hub for body-mounting. The radio is comfortable in the hand, all plastic, and with two stand-out features/design elements:

Channel 5 is a spring-loaded thumb dial that returns to center. What a perfect controller for a winch! (The chassis and bull-bar have a mount point and fairlead respectively for exactly that, too!); and,
A set of DIP switches on the radio that give you control over drive mode (Fwd/Brk/Rev and Fwd/Rev); LiPO/NiMH; Drag Brake (0%, 25%, 50%, 100% – though it’s weak even at 100%); and all the channel reverse options.

It’s a good system. Be aware the light kit is a cut-down version that gives you headlights or no headlights, and indicators and reverse being always enabled based on steering and throttle inputs respectively.

The biggest drawback is that Reverse is WEAK. Slow and underpowered, it seems to have been a cost-saving choice, as you need less MOSFETs in the ESC for reverse for this outcome. Saved FlySky a buck or two, though you miss it on the trail. Apart from this one drawback, I like the whole system.

Our Test Course

If you’re not familiar with how we test RC rock crawlers, we have a course that challenges any 4x4 RC crawler in many ways:

Approach and departure angle: these are challenged on Problems 2 and 3;
Side-hill ability: tested on Problems 1, 3 and 5;
Breakover (skid clearance): tested on Problems 4 and 6;
Suspension articulation and centre of gravity: challenged on problems 2 and 5; and lastly,
A punishing ascent on problem 6 tests all of balance, break-over, articulation, tire traction and approach and departure angles.

Put together, we have a gnarly, challenging set of problems that challenge all crawlers. If a rig can conquer 3 or more of them, chances are you have a reasonably high-performance rock crawler. There are some machines that can claim all success on all six in stock form – but not many!

Driving Woes

I tested it on my 6-Problem course. Bad news first: that slow and underpowered reverse is a big enough drawback to be quite noticeable. I also found the steering servo to be slow and it faded under heavy crawling within a few minutes (though it didn’t fail outright).

The motor and gearing is too fast for crawling and too slow for trail driving. There’s no second speed here, so unlike the Rescuer (there’s that comparison again!!), you’re stuck with your gearing, battery and motor choice. This feels just like comparing the TRX4m to the FCX24 with its 2-speed, actually!

The tires are too stiff. The suspension moves like it should, though being filled with oil would have helped. The car is top-heavy and it tips over easily.

Driving Wins

On the bright side, this car looks magnificent on the trail. It looks amazing on the rocks. It moves nicely, with plenty of scale body roll without being too much. It’s quiet, and very pleasant to watch it work over the ground.

Without upgrades, in stock form, this will be a frustrating car to drive if you’re going beyond basic obstacles. The waterproofing is a nice touch, as are the lights, but that capability limitation will make itself known regularly.

With upgrades, though? Yeah, I think this could easily become one of my favorite cars. I’ll get back to you on that, as I’m planning on doing all of the upgrades I list below. The car drives okay. Could be better. 4/10.

Value Proposition

So, did they pull it off? Is the car worth the asking price? For a bigger, established brand name, the price is good. Although, newer names have been creeping in with very durable and very capable options in recent times – just look at the Ecto if you’re not convinced (review here)!

I think this car represents real potential for the owner who loves the Landcruiser body and has plans to improve it. As a stand-alone crawler, it’s not as good as a similarly priced rig from Element, such as the Sendero HD. But as a scale crawler with potential to go ultra-scale at low speeds, it leaves the more expensive TRX4 and Axial CJ7 in its dust. But those crawlers will be better on the trail with their second speeds, and better on the rocks, with their better tires and overall performance. So, what to do here? Buy it if you love the body, but be prepared to upgrade as you’re able.

Upgrades?

Open your wallet for this one. I try to be reserved in my upgrade recommendations usually, but this rig really wants a list of things. Ready?

Wheels & Tires

First, the tires need to go. They aren’t great. And since they’re glued, go with a weighted beadlock wheel too. I’m quite partial to the Boom Racing Hustlers – check them out (and I even found some period-correct steel ‘Sunraisia’ style beadlocks that go *perfectly* with this car)!

Also, you’ll want to install wheel wells (I’ll design some soon to download and print).

Electronics

The slow, weak servo needs replacing. Try my favorite budget crawler servo and you can even run it directly off the 2S battery (signal and ground wires to receiver, positive wire to battery connector, via a switch if you want). Or, my fave 7.4v brushless all-rounder is this guy.

While we’re on electronics, the AIO Rx/ESC and motor combo is sufficiently lacklustre that you’ll eventually throw your hands up and slap in a Fusion system instead.

You’ll want a radio system too, in that case – buy a receiver for any other radio you have, or consider the ever-reliable FlySky GT5.

Banggood sells really cheap 6-ch receivers so you can use this handset for up to 20 models, which is handy.

Lights & Accessories

Lastly, lights: use a Y-splitter for the light control module on the throttle channel and hope for the best (I will try to make an Arduino-based adapter for this to piggy-back off throttle and steering channels soon).

Down the track, you may consider a servo winch – the car is certainly ready for one! And perhaps also some scale accessories and you’ll be sorted!

Bottom Line

It’s a worthy body on a basic car. With upgrades, it’ll be a SWB beast! Without em, it’ll be a bit frustrating to drive. Pick obstacles appropriate to its capability and you’ll enjoy yourself. Just keep the limitations in mind if you’ve got your heart set on this gorgeous model.

My thanks to Banggood for providing RC-TNT with this model to review. I’d have purchased it myself if they hadn’t, because, just look at it! But they made the investment and have my thanks. Grab your own RGT Intruder EX86020 from Banggood here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

RGT Intruder: An Important Release!

by Craig | May 22, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Intruder EX86020 may be RGT’s most important release this year. Is this something great under a pretty body or more of the same old?

Which RGT Trail Rig is Best for YOU?

by Craig | Dec 17, 2023 | RC Crawlers, RGT

Three epic trail rigs from RGT: Rescuer EX86190, Challenger EX86170 & Pro Runner EX86130. They’re all great, but which one should you buy?

RGT 136100V3 Rock Cruiser RC-4 V3

by Craig | May 7, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT 136100V3 is a fun RC crawler with potential for better performance. It looks great on the trail and debuts some trick new electronics!

TRX4 Alternative? RGT Rescuer Review

by Craig | Mar 5, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The new RGT Rescuer (EX86190) is RGT’s latest and greatest premium RC rock crawler. Does it have what it takes to challenge the Traxxas TRX4?

RGT Adventurer V2 Review

by Craig | Jan 18, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Adventurer V2 136240 is a brilliant little 1:24 RC rock crawler. We’ve properly tested it, including in water. Video review too!

RGT Pioneer EX86110 1/10 4WD RC Rock Crawler

by Craig | Jan 7, 2022 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, RGT

The RGT Pioneer EX86110 is cheaper than competitors and has a respectable specs list that suggest it’s a serious 1:10 RC crawler. Let’s test!

Yikong 4106 Pro Has a Party Trick!

by Craig | Mar 8, 2024 | RC Crawlers, RC Reviews, Yikong

Inspiration, Not Imitation

Yikong 4106 Pro is a 1/10 RC crawler with an ability we have not yet seen in the RC crawling world. You may not have heard of Yikong before, but they’ve been quietly making some interesting models over 2023 and now 2024. This latest one will knock your socks off, once you consider the ramifications of what they’ve made. But first, some details.

This is a model that combines the best features of the offerings of the likes of Axial’s SCX10 III with 2-speed transmission and DIG (disengages drive to the rear, then locks the rear, for tight turning and improved rock crawling ability) and the Traxxas TRX4 with its remotely activated locking diffs.

The Killer Feature

But what makes the Yikong 4106 Pro special is something new that we haven’t seen in RC cars ever before: independent disc brakes! They’re only in the rear and they activate via a button that mixes their function with the vehicle’s steering. They work by clamping the inside wheel on a turn, when activated. So, when you turn left, for example, the rear-left wheel is braked, helping to really tighten the vehicle’s turning circle. Genius!

On the Floaty Side

The suspension is a bit on the floaty side, with considerable body roll. The vehicle has portal axles, which helps cancel out torque twist while also increasing undercarriage clearance on rough terrain. The shocks are “oil-filled” but the unit I received had “oily” but empty shocks. I’d suggest adding 30wt oil to create some needed damping.

Shocks can be mounted in a variety of positions, which is very welcome. They’re neutral, by default, and I like them there for trail and light crawling. Shock preload is adjustable by thumbscrews, and I found that winding on about 8mm in the rear really helped it with crawling. Now it isn’t so fast to lift a front wheel on steep ascents.

4106 Pro Servos

In the below photo, there are three servos closest to the camera. The first two are the diff lock servos, and then the one closer to the battery is the 2-speed servo. These are waterproofed servos with low power, I’m guessing maybe 2-3kg. Plastic gears, plastic spline, that kind of thing.

My front diff lock servo was broken, out of the box. I may replace it with another similarly cheap unit, or I may even just leave it be. I don’t mind the front being locked all the time. It’s the rear one that wants to be able to unlock, both for general driving and so that the ‘tank steer’ feature can work correctly.

The steering servo is a metal geared unit and has plenty of punch. I’m guessing 15kg or so, which is fine for this car.

Electronics

The ESC and receiver are an all-in-one unit from Flysky, which is OEM-only at time of writing. The Flysky FS-MG11-BS radio system incorporates a connected light kit that is designed to work with the radio system. It manages a lot of complexity in an elegant way. I like it. (It’s the same one you’ll find with the new FMS FCX10 1/10 model, and no doubt we’ll see it in other vehicles soon, too).

The car can take either a NiMH battery (6 or 7 cell), or 2S or 3S lipos. The ESC has a Deans (or T) connector. The power switch is located underneath, behind the skid, and is waterproofed.

The radio transmitter takes 4x AA batteries and you’ll need to supply all the batteries for this vehicle.

The motor is a large, 550-sized can with 32 turns. It’s well suited to the vehicle and I like it on both 2S and 3S.

Axles & Undercarriage

Axles are a pleasing scale design, with smooth lines and bolts in the right places. They engage well, seem like they’ll be durable, and the portals are tastefully implemented. No hulking, unnecessary chunks of plastic here. The front axles are steel universals, adding to their strength and something I always want to see in a crawler.

Thoughtful design is what you’ll find underneath the vehicle. Stainless steel links and inverse-rotation drive shafts are also like this. There’s a servo saver in the form of a passive steering damper on the steering link, too. It’s a solid undercarriage, overall. Nothing is hanging down to be grabbed by sticks or rocks and it just looks good.

Now, you may have read that it has a molded plastic chassis instead of the usual steel stamped C-channel rails. This is true. But, it works. The car is lighter for it, flex isn’t a huge issue and it keeps the cost down. I don’t see a down side in this model with that choice.

Mercedes & Hyrax: Clone Wars

The wheels are 2.2″ and look like the real thing, with the tiny Mercedes G-Wagon spokes around a solid wheel hub. The tire treads are not so scale, being a Proline Hyrax clone, but run on a 4.56″ tire carcass, which Proline does not make. Not entirely a clone, then – though the treads themselves clearly are Hyrax. The foams are a little on the firm side but they work well.

A Mysterious Interior

This G63 body has a complete interior, including dash, steering wheel, dash details and shifters, seats front and rear, and nicely finished. It’s in moulded polycarbonate, keeping the weight low.

However, there’s been a weird decision to apply a frosted, semi-opaque paint layer to the inside of the body on the windows, making it possible to only see the blurred outline of the seats, at best. Why go to the trouble and expense of including an interior, only to hide it? Perhaps subsequent manufacturing runs have removed the paint from the windows. I hope so.

Front Bumper Dilemma

The car comes with a solid plastic front bumper that can be installed. By default, it is not installed, instead allowing the stock polycarbonate body to show off its pretty, moulded front lower grille. If you want to install that front bumper, some of the body needs to be cut away to fit it. I was going to do this on mine but realised it would look worse. Cutting it is a one-way decision, so I’ve decided to keep mine as it is.

I should also add a note here about the sliders. They look like the aluminum of the real car -that is to say, they’re molded and painted on the polycarbonate body here. That means they look great, but it also means they’re weak. Just like the real thing, they’re really just for looks. You could beef it up with steel or plastic underneath, but it would be a custom job. As far as I know, there aren’t after-market rock sliders available for this model (yet).

Lighting Up the Trail

The body also enjoys a complete light system. It functions as part of the integrated Flysky receiver/ESC/light unit and provides full-function lighting. Low beam, high beam, flashing, indicators, braking, reverse, and fog lights are all part of the vehicle’s abilities. Looks great and you can switch between off, low, high, and flashing configurations.

Drive Modes

Also part of the Flysky system is a set of DIP switches on the radio transmitter. Switch 1 toggles driving mode from Fwd/Brk/Rev (trail driving) to Fwd/Rev (crawling). In the Trail mode, the taillights increase red luminosity when braking. In Crawl mode, there is no braking; you simply see the white Reverse lights when reversing, and the low-glow red taillights when otherwise stationary or driving.

Speaking of the transmitter, the wheel feels very premium. There’s a weight to it, though plastic, that has the feel of a much more expensive radio. The spring is light, the balance neutral, and it just feels great to use. The throttle trigger also has a pleasingly light action.

Radio Freedom

There are many options on this radio and happily, many are not used. There’s a thumb dial that has maybe 5mm of movement from neutral in each direction – that isn’t populated on the receiver, so it’d make a great winch controller or rear steer option.

On top, there’s a button and a dial that also aren’t used on the receiver (unless mixing interferes with this; I haven’t tested them yet), but you end up with quite a few options. You could put a sound system in the car and have the spare top button as a horn, for example.

Drag Brake on the Fly

Lastly, the radio also gives you a dial (Ch.11/Drag Brake) that allows the drag brake rate and intensity to be adjusted on the fly. The maximum setting feels like the equivalent of about 70% drag brake on a WP-1080 ESC (incidentally, see our programming guide here), in this vehicle. The minimum setting is basically zero drag brake. My video review shows the difference between these on the steep rock descent near the end. It’s a nifty feature.

Yikong 4106 Pro Driving Dynamics

The car drives quite nicely. This is a scale vehicle more than a performance machine. With it’s many driving accessories, it’s very fun to play around with. The two-speed transmission has a pleasingly wide ratio between first and second. The lockers engage nicely – well, I should say, the rear one does.

The front one does too, when I do it manually, but my front locker servo arrived faulty, so I can’t tell you from experience. I’ll swap mine out for a replacement servo (just a mini size, they’re pretty universal, so no worries there) and it’ll be fine. The so-called ‘tank turn’ feature of those rear disc brakes is just fabulous, and the lighting kit in the pretty body makes night driving possible and day driving more scale.

Back to the Big Thing

Now, onto those ramifications I mentioned in the intro: independent disc brakes. Yes, this model uses a single servo to modulate between left and right, for the sole purpose of tightening your steering radius when active. It works well. But as a proof of concept, now we know disc brakes work and that they can be rugged enough to be effective in an active, wet-n-dirty off-roader. On its own, that’s already impressive, right?

Now Think BIG

Okay, now think about faster cars. The Arrma Infraction has a disc brake on the rear outdrive from the transmission, for example. (Incidentally, buy an Infraction using this link for a discounted purchase; it’s my all-time favourite street car and so very worth it). Already a super fun, super powerful street machine, you now effectively have a hand brake feature on an 80mph-capable street basher. Nitros have also been using a disc brake on the drive shaft for years.

But to have disc brakes independently on each wheel? This means the traction control of full-size cars can be brought into road and track RC cars! Do you see the potential here? We already have the technology in the tiny ESC modules of current RC vehicles. Add a few extra servos and now you have something that can brake each wheel as traction is lost in a corner or under acceleration, and so on. What an exciting idea! I don’t know of any other manufacturer currently doing this, but I’m hopeful and excited to see more. Wow!

Final Thoughts

Frosted interior windows aside, the Yikong 4106 Pro is very well thought out. A manual would be appreciated, especially for hobby newcomers, as there’s a LOT going on with the radio. Thankfully, it’s well labelled.

I don’t support the blatant IP theft that Yikong have seemingly undertaken from Mercedes with the pretty G Wagon body, nor from the Hyrax tires. But, on the whole, they’ve created something special.

I’m loving the progress we’re seeing from these smaller brands and I’m so pleased the Yikong 4106Pro is not just another clone of an existing vehicle. It’s fun to drive, capable for what it is (think ‘Class 1 comp crawler’ and you’ll be pleasantly surprised) and it looks great. Recommended.

Where to Buy

Here’s where I bought mine (not an affiliate link; it’s just the only place I could find it in stock in Feb 2024). There’s another Yikong model on my ‘to-buy’ list, but it’s a bit bigger than this one! Check out the Yikong 4083 1/8 RC crawler here.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

A note on affiliate links: we purchased this vehicle ourselves for test & review purposes. Some of the links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0

by Craig | Dec 24, 2023 | Losi, RC Off-Road, RC Reviews

It’s Huge

The Losi SBR 2.0 is one of the larger RC cars available today (currently on sale here). But it’s also quite different to most of the other 1/7, 1/6 and 1/5 scale fare you can choose. It might be the most unique offering in this scale, now I think about it. Consider: if you want to bash hard, you buy an X-Maxx, Outcast 8S or Kraton 8S. If you want to crawl or trail drive, the SCX6 has you covered. Large scale race track nearby? Get yourself a Losi 5IVE-T 2.0 or a DBXL and have at it. HPI’s Baja 5B has you sorted for big buggy action.

But what if you want scale desert truck driving? Humungous suspension travel, the kind of cornering that only a live rear axle can deliver? Something to match the Traxxas UDR favored by so many? But… bigger and more aggressive? Losi has you covered with the Super Baja Rey 2.0. Let me show you what makes this enormous monster so special.

Losi SBR 2.0

This is a 1/6 scale desert truck. I didn’t have the original one, so I can’t give you a side-by-side comparison, but Losi says this one is built on the Super Rock Rey chassis, but with an extra inch of wheelbase length. They’ve combined it with the front of the Super Baja Rey and there you go, SBR 2.0.

It’s a four-wheel drive vehicle that is engineered to be tough – but of course, with the live rear axle, it will take the right driving approach to keep the wheels on the ground. This style of vehicle is made to soak up big bumps at high speeds. While they can slide and corner reasonably well, this will never be a basher to replace the likes of the Arrma Senton 6S or similar, with its independent front and rear suspension. I guess you could say that RC desert trucks – the SBR here, the BR2.0, Traxxas UDR and so on – are all about the scale drive.

Body Issues

I’ll start with something that was a bit of a let-down. It’s only minor, but this isn’t a cheap model and so you expect the thing to be pristine out of the box. For this design, Losi elected to use something like vinyl wrap for the livery. Mine was a little worse for wear, with cracks in the decals around folds and edges. Some sheets were even misaligned. Screws were oxidized and there’s dust under the light bar lenses.

To be fair to Losi, this is surely a challenging model to assemble. Even in a production-line style setup, I expect it would take considerable effort to get something like this together without mistakes. But to find so many minor issues with my unit does make me wonder about quality control. Is it only the body I should be concerned about here, or will there be missing grease in diffs or a critical screw not secured completely?

Still Gorgeous Tho

The issues I had with this thing are only skin deep, as far as I can tell. At time of writing, I haven’t run the car yet, so if there are underlying mechanical oversights, I’ll edit this section later to let you know. But if you’re not looking closely, those misaligned panels and livery sheet cracks are not obvious. It’s all forgivable when you step back and take the thing in. This is a machine of beauty.

Radio System

Cars rarely came with radio systems in decades past. However, relative to RTR (Ready To Run) sales, kit builds are a lot less popular than they used to be. Many hobbyists may still prefer a kit (including me), but it isn’t what sells. Instead, manufacturers are typically now releasing models with everything assembled and included. The included radios with RTR systems have been hit and miss, maybe more on the ‘miss’ side for some time.

Horizon Hobbies has several big brands under its umbrella at this point. This includes the Losi vehicle here, but notably, also Spektrum. This is why you’ll get a Spektrum radio and power system with most Horizon-brand RTR models these days (Arrma, Losi, Axial, and so on). While the common and more basic Spektrum SLT3 system is fine, the better one is the Spektrum DX3 with 6100AT AVC receiver – and that’s what comes with the Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0.

I like this system in particular because of two dials that make it so much easier to use than so many others. The first is an adjustable braking dial – turn it up for more aggressive braking. The second is a stability control dial, or steering gyro – turn that up to have the car counter-steer more responsively to keep the nose pointed forward. In a car like this, I’d suggest the former is quite important and the latter is probably best left turned mostly down. Experiment and see; it’s so easy to adjust on this radio. I’m a fan! (The marks and dust are because Metro Hobbies sent me a floor model without telling me. Disappointing, but not a big deal).

The Main Thing

This is what we’re here for: that epic, desert truck suspension and live rear axle. Check these pictures out! Look at how much range there is, especially over the rear axle. It’s plush, heavy-duty and epic. Of course, the rear suspension is mounted on trailing arms, and everything about the arms at both ends is heavy duty and well designed. There are hefty sway bars at each end and it looks great. Even just typing this, I’m wondering how I’ve managed to not drive this car yet. I’m busy, but too busy to drive this car? I’m selling myself on this thing just writing this.

The front end has plenty of travel as well and the body has a pleasing amount of roll. There’s bolstering around the chassis mounts and both ends are adjustable with alu thumb screws. Looks great, too.

Losi SBR 2.0 Front LHS Extended Suspension

Losi SBR 2.0 Front LHS Compressed Suspension

Drive Line

Steel universals are found throughout the vehicle’s drive line. The rear shaft is a fibre-infused telescoping unit that attaches to the steel unis at each end. Given the crazy power this car can make (and we should talk about that in a moment, see below), you’d reasonably question if plastic will be up to the job on the rear end, in particular.

Well, there are steel drive shafts available on the after-market for this car, but having discussed this car with other owners, the consensus seems to be that it’s tough enough for the job. Certainly, there’s not a lot of flex in the parts, but rigidity is probably the more important element here. The glass element should be sufficient. We’ll see!

Wheels and Tires

BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM3 tires are clamped securely in Method Racing beadlock wheels on 17mm hex adapters. Side walls are firm but have some flexibility and the foams are also medium-hard. Of course, there are the two full size, functional spares on the rear of the vehicle, which is part of the magic of this interesting car.

Power System

Bigger numbers don’t necessarily mean bigger speed. With RC power systems, getting the voltage, motor kv (revolutions per volt), and gearing correct can be a balancing act. Typically, larger scale vehicles will run lower kv motors, favouring higher volts to achieve the torque and power required to move a heavy vehicle rapidly.

The SBR 2.0 runs a Spektrum Firma 160A 8S-capable ESC, powering a hefty (no, really) 5687 750kv motor. This is both a huge diameter and lengthy can – this motor is 56mm across and 87mm long.Batteries are loaded from the bottom of the vehicle, also helping to keep the weight low. It has a claimed top speed of around 50mph. Doesn’t that sound kind of uncomfortable! Fun, though!

Losi SBR 2.0 Battery Plugs and Rear Drive Shaft

Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0

How does it drive? Well, I can’t give you that quite yet. I’m looking forward to it, but I’ve been waiting to drive with a Traxxas UDR so we can compare them a bit. I might try to throw in an Arrma Mojave 6S as well, and then we can see which might be the best to get for your purposes. I’ll put that video here, when I make it. I can’t wait!

Read more here and buy your own Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0 here.

Don’t Miss

Meanwhile, you might be interested in reading about the 10-car roundup we’re doing at the end of 2023 and into early 2024. There are ten short course and desert trucks in 1/10 and 1/8 scale from all the big names and some of the smaller ones. The list includes the new Tekno SCT410 2.0, the Losi Baja Rey 2.0, Arrma Mojave 4S as well as the Senton 3S BLX, and more. Check out the channel for more.

Craig Veness

RC-TNT

A note on affiliate links: the Amazon links in the above article are affiliate links, which means we may be paid a small commission if you choose to click on them to make a purchase. As always, we make effort to ensure that no review is impacted by this – we still report on bugs and issues encountered during product testing, and our fixes or solutions if found. Thank you for reading and happy RC-ing!

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